Problemsolving last years tomatoes before problems this year.

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Last year all my 120 tomato plants had bloosom rot. The chickens ate well, and I canned lots but still would like to know what the problem was. I don't want a repeat this year.I would pick before they ripened and put them on the shelf on poarch inorder to save before the bottoms got black. Anyone have suggestions or comments. Thanks and God Bless

-- Micheale from SE Kansas (mbfrye@totelcsi.net), April 08, 2002

Answers

blossom end rot can be caused by a mineral deficeintcy,, have a soil test lately? can also be cause by a wet blooming time,, but get a soil test,, I'd bet its there

-- Stan (sopal@net-pert.com), April 08, 2002.

Lack of calcium is usually the culprit . . . I usually see it when we've had heavy rains or long dry spells. A soil test should tell you what's what.

-- Julie Woessner (jwoessner@rtmx.net), April 08, 2002.

DITTO...are you planting the tomatoes in the same dirt each season without adding anything to it? It's a good idea to rotate your garden every other season as well as test the soil..this keeps the bugs down and allows the soil to get built back up from certain plants leaching out things..I agree with the folks above.

-- lesley (martchas@bellsouth.net), April 08, 2002.

just FYI,, its not a good idea to plant nightshades in the same area year after year,, there is a fungus that can take over,, and you will loose everything froma a wilt,, though you may not know the cause. NOTHING can be done to the soil after it gets a GOOD dirthold,, its ever present in all soils,, but it take a few years to get out of control. No fungicides work on it. though it doesnt cause the blossom end rot,, it may be worth considering. A move of 3 foot, from the last years planting, is suffiecient

-- Stan (sopal@net-pert.com), April 08, 2002.

I believe that this problem is caused by inconsistent moisture, like when you have a dry spell, then a wet spell.

-- mary (mlg@mlg.com), April 08, 2002.


Everyone has told you what is wrong. Now here is how we plant tomatoes. First in winter we prepare soil, lots of bone meal, and cotton seed meal, rotted mulch. Then come spring we plant our tomatoes, put cages around them, and put lots and lots of mulch around them, cover all the ground.We put soaker hoses down the rows, and water real good once a week, Now you go to garden center and buy one can of blossom end rot.I can't think of the real name off my head. but the garden center will know what it is. And at the first sign of trouble, spray your tomatoes.We always have tons of tomatoes, to eat and can.

-- Irene texas (tkorsborn@cs.com), April 08, 2002.

I personally would prefer not to use any chemicals in my garden, so it is nice to know what causes these problems, so you can remedy them without resorting to chemicals. Anything that has to have chemicals I don't grow!!!

I have also heard it is cause by inconsistent moisture when the tomato is being formed, and a lack of some minerals. But why do some tomatoes get it and others don't, even on the same plant? Some of our amish friends say to put down a thick layer of star so that no dirt touches theplants and then they don't get it. We did this last year and it seemed to help a lot. I also rotate all of my plants to different areas of the garden each year.

-- Melissa in SE Ohio (me@home.net), April 08, 2002.


You need a soil test you probably are defecient in micro nutrients like calcium mentioned earlier. Crop rotation always helps. You need to mulch heavy to maintain uniform moisture. The mulch will also prevent early and late blight.

-- John in Mn. (nospam@mywork.com), April 08, 2002.

Sorry, that was a thick layer of "straw" not star!!! I don't have enough star dust lying around to do any good for anything!!!

-- Melissa in SE Ohio (me@home.net), April 08, 2002.

just a wee note.... Irene didn't say that we were wrong... she said that everybody had explained the problem, but not offered a solution. which she did.

Thank you.

-- Rose (open_rose@hotmail.com), April 08, 2002.



You got some good responses Micheale. Make sure you have enough calcium in your soil. The calcium in the soil, is then taken up from the roots through water, which travels all the way through the plants, out to the ends of the tomatoes. That is why a steady supply of water is important. If the plant isn't getting a consistant dose of calcium by the way of water,....blossom end rot. As others have said, mulch to contain moisture and soaker hoses used on a regular watering schedule will work wonders. Good luck!

-- Annie (mistletoe6@earthlink.net), April 09, 2002.

Putting Epsom salts in the soil helps stop blossom end rot, too. It is not "salt" but a form of magnesium (if I remember correctly). This and even watering should stop the problem.

-- Jean in IL (schiszik@tbcnet.com), April 09, 2002.

Lime, Epsom salts, or powdered milk are good for blossom end rot. But make sure you don't already live in an area with lots of lime. You can get too much and kill your plants.

-- Cindy (S.E.IN) (atilrthehony_1@yahoo.com), April 09, 2002.

Thanks everyone!! I know where to start now. You guys have been a great help, just like I knew you would!God Bless

-- Micheale from SE Kansas (mbfrye@totelcsi.net), April 09, 2002.

Thanks Rose, God bless

-- Irene texas (tkorsborn@cs.com), April 09, 2002.


Just want to add the obvious, that if the tomato is setting on the ground, it will rot.

-- mary (mlg@mlg.com), April 09, 2002.

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