Elan II with 420ex compatability

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I have a Canon Elan II body and speedlite 420ex. I purchased the 420ex since it is supposed to work in E-TTL with the Elan II. For a while now I have been getting underexposed and grainy pictures especially when using iso film of 400 and 800. The results are better when using iso 100 film, just a little underexposed but good overall picture. In (P) Program mode the exposure is always set to 1/60th @ f/4 no matter what the iso film. Even in FE-Lock I do not see a change in the exposure. In Av mode, in low-light the ambient light exposure would calculate a very slow speed, and if the photo is taken, then it is not overridden by the E-TTL, the shutter opens for exactaly the amount of time calculated for the ambient light. After reading about how to set f/stop for manual flash, I set my f/stop to 16 based on f/stop=GN/Dist calculation and the pictures are coming out great for iso 400 film. I am beginning to think that the 420ex works in TTL mode rather than E-TTL mode and that the 420ex is not compatible with my ELAN II. Is anybody experiencing the same type of problem ? Do I need to get the speedlite 380ex to get full E-TTL functionality? Any input/suggestions would be appreciated.

Pete

-- Pete (pnegussu@hotmail.com), April 03, 2002

Answers

The Speedlite 420EX provides full E-TTL functionality with type A camera bodies such as the EOS Elan II.

http:// teladesign.com/photo/eos-flash/

-- NK Guy (tela@tela.bc.ca), April 03, 2002.


Hi Pete,

Your Elan II was the first EOS body to offer E-TTL, so it cannot make use of some of the newer E-TTL features offered on the 420EX. For instance, modeling flash is not supported, nor is wireless flash ratio control. But basic E-TTL operation, using preflash metering or FEL, will be the same as on my Elan 7E See:
Canon Technical Report

It is theoretically possible that incomplete connection at the hotshoe can make your flash function in TTL mode. You can tell if the flash is in E-TTL mode by looking at the red lamp on the back of the flash.

Your method of setting aperture using GN calculations is similar to the old A-TTL program. This will maximize the DOF, but will also produce dark backgrounds.

To achieve "pseudo A-TTL", I use M mode on the camera, and avoid doing GN calculations by making use of FEL. After pushing the FEL button, I spin the aperture wheel to find the smallest aperture that just avoids flash underexposure. I found that this FEL method is more reliable than the old A-TTL method, particularly for indirect flash.

Hope this helps.

-- Julian Loke (elan7e-owner@yahoogroups.com), April 03, 2002.


Hi Pete:

I have an Elan IIe with the 420EX. I have pretty much noticed all the things that you have noticed. Now, I use manual mode when using the flash, to get best results. As for the film you are using, I think 800 speed is not really for use with a flash. Especially, if you are using Kodak 800, don't expect great pictures. It is really not a good film. Personally, I find 200 Royal Gold to be the perfect indoor flash film for my uses. Bye the way, the FE lock doesn't change the aperture or shutter speed. All it does, is change the output of your flash. By using smaller apertures(like F16), the flash has to fire stronger, so you get a picture that is mainly lit with your flash. With bigger apertures and slower shutter speeds, you with get more ambient light into your exposure. This will give undesireable results, most of the time. Incadesant lighting will give you a yellowish cast, and flouresent lighting will give you a greenish color to your prints. What lens or lenses are you using? Hope this helps a little.

John

-- John (wolverine@nf.sympatico.ca), April 03, 2002.


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