Anyone used "dry stack concrete block method" for foundation walls?

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I'm considering using the dry stack method for building concrete block foundation walls on an addition. I've seen some examples on the internet but I'm looking for anyone with advise or experience with this method.

-- Craig Stolt (cstolt@waveone.net), March 13, 2002

Answers

I'll be interested in an answer to this question also. After one of the sights I've looked over on the net I'm leaning towards this method to build our house.

-- Terri in WV (mrs_swift_26547@yahoo.com), March 13, 2002.

I have a friend who tore down and moved a large story and a half log cabin and rebuilt it on a dry laid block foundation. It has been there for several years now and seems fine.

-- J.F. (JBakerBosco@cs.com), March 14, 2002.

have used this method many times on different structures. critical always to overlap the block by one cell. you can use cardboard or paper to shim each block as they must be level at each course,both ways.after the rebar is in place, the trickiest part is the grouting without knocking the wall askew. temporary bracing or easy pouring with a 7 sack mix per yard would work.

-- raymond gray (rorlgray@graytv.com), March 14, 2002.

Our well paid, well informed, well instructed Federal Government tried doing that at one of the more visited National Monuments hereabouts. The wall caved in and the foundation collapsed. Do it at your own risk!

-- al (yr2012@hotmail.com), March 15, 2002.

We just put a double wide manufactured home on some acreage. The common practice around her is to mortar in three rows of concrete block for skirting, to make the house more 'permanent'. It made no sense to us as the skirting does nothing to support the house. We drystacked split faced block and it not only looks much better than the mortared block it saved us over $2000. In addition, if we need access under the house all we have to do is move a few block whick sure beats doing the belly crawl.

-- jz (oz49us@yahoo.com), March 16, 2002.


CRAIG......I`VE HAD NO EXPERIENCE WITH IT.BUT A LOCAL ENGINEER TOLD ME HE DIDN`T THINK IT WOULD LAST A YEAR IN A NORTHER REGION WITH FROST. HE ALSO SAID THEY TEND TO LEAK.THE PARGING MATERIAL IS LIKE 1/8" THICK THE FROST HEAVING AGAINST IT WOULD WEAR THROUGH.

CORDWOODGUY

-- CORDWOODGUY (cordwoodguy@juno.com), March 16, 2002.


Craig,

I have used this method for building basement, garages and barn foundations with good results. The dry stack method is approved by BOCA. BOCA are the guidelines that the local building inspector follows in our county. The books I have read indicate that the walls are 7 times stronger than conventional mortared walls. However, the walls need to be parged inside and outside with fiberglass reinforced bonding cement. Comparing the cost of the bonding cement it was cheaper to pour the cores with concrete. The footers are poured with rebar sticking up out of the footer. The first course is set in mortar to level, then the rest of the block work goes very quick as they are dry stacked. Block are pretty much uniform in size so very little shimming is needed. If shimming is warranted I use a little mortar to get the line back to level. After the wall is up I make a box out of 2x8 lumber about 4 foot long. The box sits over the block. I use 2x4 lumber attached to the box and extends down the wall. For filling the cores I order 2500 lbs mix concrete with pea gravel. Concrete driver drives along the wall and chutes the concrete into the homemade box. I use rebar to go up and down each block core to work the air out and settle the concrete. Every 6 feet I leave the rebar in the core for reinforcement and add a anchor bolt to attach the sill plate. I then parge the outside of the wall with portland and sand and then tar for waterproofing.

-- j mackay (jmackay@magnus.net), March 17, 2002.


Six years ago we built a 30x25, very heavy, three story house using rough cut lumber (studs and beams). The beams are large, white oak, and exposed resulting in one very heavy house. We dry stacked a full size basement (making the house four stories in all). First we dug the trench around the perimeter and put in the foundation (concrete and rebar). Next we dry stacked the blocks (used the large ones, not the regular size)using metal shims (the kind you use to hold brick to the side of a house) when necessary. Then we put on two coats of "quick-wall" which is the fiberglass reinforced bonding cement on both sides. Next went a termite shield (we live in the deep south), then the wood for the first floor. We did not put any concrete/cement inside the blocks. It has held up beautifully. We are very pleased. Not a crack one. We followed the instruction in a copy of "Fine Homebuilding" but I cannot locate the issue so I can't tell you which one it was. The foundation instructions also came from "Fine Homebuilding" Oh yeah, in order to make the wall stronger, we turned some of the blocks and created pilasters on the inside of the basement. We did this about every 15 feet. Would I do it again? You bet cha! Hope this has helped. Maybe looking for the back issues of "Fine Homebuilding" can give you more info. Good Luck!!

-- Thistleseed (xxx@xx.com), March 18, 2002.

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