Does anyone have experience starting plants in tobacco type float beds? I have a couple of float trays filled w/ growing medium that I got from my tobacco growing neighbor last year. Can I start the seeds directly in the float trays? My neighbor buys the baby tobacco plants in tiny trays and "plugs" them into the larger float trays. I am the world's worst at remembering to water plants so I'm thinking this might be a way for me to start some perennials, like Gaillardia Goblin that bloomed for me into December of last year. A $2 pack of seeds is a whole lot cheaper than $2 or more per plant!

Do I need to keep a light on under the plastic? What kind of fertilizer? Should I use a fungicide in the water? Any experiences/suggestions?

-- shakeytails in KY (shakeytails@yahoo.com), February 13, 2002

Answers

Well, I don't have any experience with "float beds," but I do raise *a lot* of seedlings and can relate a few things: start with sterile equipment and media. Bleach is often mentioned as a good thing to use, but I find it can get into the equipment's substance and offgas, harming the seedlings. Better to use the same quaternary agents hospitals use. See if a local hospital can supply you with some, or check with a greenhouse supply company. The one I use is called "Greenshield." Use a bagged starting medium, or make sure your homemade mix is sterile. Baking it in the oven works, but is pretty stinky.

Germinating seeds need heat, moisture, and humidity. Temperatures around 70°F are pretty normal, although some species have different needs. The seed catalog may tell you, or you can call the company's horticulturist. And most companies have toll-free numbers.

So, water the seeded flat well, but also: let it drain well!!! Never let it sit in water! I am obviously NOT an advocate of bottom watering, and although it works well for some folks, there's too much of a risk of saturating the meduim and killing the seeds, and having too many soluble salts remain in the medium and damaging delicate, emerging roots. Use a mister bottle or something similar to water. Check your seedlings every day. Make it part of your routine, and you'll be less likely to forget.

Cover the flat with plastic wrap or a dome, and set the whole thing somewhere warm. Seed germination: 1. seed takes up water through its umbilical pore (hylum); 2. seed coat cracks and root (radical) emerges; 3. seed leaves emerge (cotyledons); 4. plant grows, puts out first true leaves. Most seeds are indifferent to light at stages 1 & 2, although there are some that need light and some that require dark. Again, check resources. Once the cotyledons start to emerge, the plant needs light. Either a good source of artificial light or sunlight will do, but make sure it's strong enough and of long enough duration -- otherwise, plants will stretch and become weak. Remove the plastic during the day once you notice the cotyledons starting to grow. You can put it back on during the night, depending on how humid it is aroudn the seeds. Or leave it off.

Fretilizer is unnecessary until plants start growing their true leaves and even then, a lot isn't a good idea. Use it at half the recommended strength. You can use fungicides, but if you start with a disinfected environment, they shouldn't be necessary. Find one recommemded for use on seedlings so you know it's properly formulated for baby plants.

Best of luck to you. Starting plants is economical and a lot of fun!

-- Marcia in MT (marciabundi@myexcel.com), February 17, 2002.