I recently decided to experiment with cross processing some E-6 film for the first time since I graduated 7 years ago. I was advised to try Agfa RSX II 50 and as I run a lab time wasn't a problem. The result was excellent, well balanced, OVER saturated in a BIG way, and very striking.

Does anybody else cross process and what films do you use?

confession, I took them on my old Mamiya NC1000 as my SL is being serviced.

-- Philip Woodcock (phil@pushbar.demon.co.uk), January 19, 2002

Answers

Phillip,

Cross processing in what way? 1st developer? What’s the basic process?

I do my own E6 using Tetenal 6-bath and experiment mostly with Fuji Provia trying, for the most part, to extend the contrast range. I’m getting good results rating the film at 120 (under exposing) & processing the 1st dev. the ‘normal’ time (~6:50 in a rotary tank) and pulling the color dev. about 5%. Saturation is more than adequate for my tastes, and skin tones in particular are nice & smooth compared to by-the-book exposure & processing.

I’ve never seen any color shift with Provia & Tetenal between a –1/3 to a +2 push (which involves both 1st & color dev. timing.)

I did see a definite blue cast once when I omitted the reversal and ran the color dev. only half its normal time. Maybe that should be a blew cast? But, considering the dumbass treatment, the film performed admirably.

I’m always interested in E6 info. Please tell me more.

Cheers,

-- Jeff Stuart (jstuart1@tampabay.rr.com), January 19, 2002.

Sorry to confuse... E-6 film processed in C-41 chemistry

-- Philip Woodcock (phil@pushbar.demon.co.uk), January 19, 2002.

Please excuse my ignorance, does this produce a negative or conventional positive?

-- Jeff Stuart (jstuart1@tampabay.rr.com), January 19, 2002.

It should when done properly produce a high contrast negative. It usually looks far too much over exposed. Also it has no orange base color like conventional C-41 films, the base is clear. You see it in a lot of fashion/pop music shots

-- Philip Woodcock (phil@pushbar.demon.co.uk), January 20, 2002.

Philip- I use this process a lot. I find that if I shoot, say Provia @ 200 or Velvia @ 100 (underexpose by one stop) and run normal in C-41, I get negs I can print well in either color or black and white- not havng the orange base helps in B+W printing, gives good results- plus, you can get those funky, blue/green cast prints in color- gives great pictures you can print with a lot of flexibility. The underexposure seems to help me with the contrast. You can also try shooting at -1 exp. and running film C-41 @ +1/2 to get back a little of that, and still not be as harsh as the normal/normal process.

Enjoy!

-- drew (swordfisher@hotmail.com), January 20, 2002.

FWIW I first cross-processed color film in 1974 as a college course assignment (slide film in color neg chemicals) - it was the only way at the time to get high speed color negative (Kodak still only made Kodacolor-X) and infrared color negatives. High-speed Ekatchrome (normally 160) at ISO 500).

E-6 film in C-41 - effective speed increases 1-2 stops

C-41 film in E-6 (also popular with fashion shooters who want slides) effective film speed decreases 1-2 stops.

I've also tried running XP-2 in E-6 to get B&W slides. Eeeesh! Not a hope....

-- Andy Piper (apidens@denver.infi.net), January 20, 2002.