Im Just about ready to start my DarkRoom and I just need some recomendations on a couple items. I doing strickly B&W Prints from 35mm negs and later on 6x7 and my enlargements will be mostly up to 8x10 untill I become more adept at the task. What should I look at for a Grain Focuser, Ive seen a wide range of price and diffent powers? I also need some advice on a basic Safe light just for B&W . Im looking at the Saunders ET-400 Enlarger Timer for about $99.00 new,is it reliable or should I look at somthing else? And the last question is, when I buy papper in 25 sheet packs, what increments of chemicals should I get so I dont end up with enough chemicals to do 500 sheets, in 8x10 size? Thanks for all the help I have been getting here.

-- Mark (Mark4583@aol.com), November 30, 2001

Answers

Mark,

Get the very best grain focuser you can afford. Whether or not you agree that something like the Peak Critical Grain Focuser is worth the money, ($268 on Calumet),it costs more because you can adjust the eyepiece when using it at the edges or corners of your paper, it has a very good mirror with a hinged cover, and it "feels" like quality all over. Most other focusers are a big step down in price, and many of them are definitely usable. I have had several, but none have been nearly as useful as the Peak. Hopefully you'll get some other responses that can give you a range of good choices.

Also not cheap, but look at the Zone VI Duo-Safe safelight from Calumet. It uses LED's, not regular bulbs, no filters to fade or crack. Rated at 100,000 hours of use. Has a switch to attenuate the light for variable contrast paper, which can be more sensitive to safelight fog.

Have fun, Don

-- Don Welch (donwelch@hotmail.com), December 01, 2001.

I like Zone VI equipment and have used it for years.

My best advice to a new darkroom user is to take time to find out what the best equipment for the job is, and, somehow get it. Money spent on cheap equipment generates no savings. If you are serious and intend to stay with this, you'll get sick of the cheap stuff and buy the better items eventually. Don't be afraid of used equipment if you can either inspect it, or get a return privilege for an item which doesn't meet its description. And, finally, you don't need everything to start with. Better to work with quality basics than cheap stuff which will never satisfy you.

Just my two cents worth, from 40 years hard earned experience [wish I had done this, rather than learn it the hard way].

-- Alec (alecj@bellsouth.net), December 02, 2001.

If you don't want to spend almost $300. for a grain focuser, you can get a Microsight grain focuser for less than $100 (less than $60.at B&H it think). It isn't as fancy as the Peak model, for example you must keep the focuser towards the center of the neg for a full view. I've used one for years with no problem. I use a Premier 10X12 safelight. Again not fancy but extremely serviceable and reasonably priced. I am not familiar with the Saunders timer you mention. I use a GraLab 450R & accessory footswitch with my enlarger and a GraLab 300 for process timing. Like the Microsight I have used both for years with no problem. I'm not quite sure I understand your paper/chemical question. I use Ethol LPD paper developer. It has an extremely long tray life (and shelf life) and you can vary the tone of your prints by changing dilution. The liquid concentrate is very easy to mix. Have fun. RO

-- Robert Orofino (minotaur1949@iopener.net), December 02, 2001.

Don't buy 25-sheet envelopes of paper. Save a little money by getting 100 sheets at least. The stuff lasts well, and even 250-sheet boxes disappear pretty fast if you're learning to print, and even thereafter. A sharp-eyed youngster may be able to print 8x10 and larger with no focusing gadget at all, although I find the MicroSight ($60 to $80, I think) helpful. But I was never a sharp-eyed youngster. I've had mixed luck with enlarger timers, finding at least one name brand being unable to keep accurate time and others simply clumsy to use. Mostly, the control buttons were too small and close together for error-free use in a dim darkroom. You need a big, solid box you can plug your gear into and that affords nice, big buttons and readouts that glow in the dark. Nowadays, I'm using an Analyser Pro, from RH Designs. Besides switching your enlarger on and off, it incorporates a spot-metering probe and shows your negative's contrast range and provides exposure timing in increments of f-stops for each of several papers, or grades, that you calibrate it for. It comes with several papers already set up in its computer. It does run $300 or so, but it's a well-made gadget that should last years. Check out the RH Designs web site.

-- Keith Nichols (knichols1@mindspring.com), December 02, 2001.

I agree with the Peak and Microsight recommendations; if you can afford the Peak, it's great; if not, the Microsight works perfectly well.

As for timers, look for a digital timer. They are simply easier to work with. Whatever timer you get, however, get one that emits an audible signal (beep) each second. This greatly fascilitates accurate burning and dodging, allowing you to count the beaps and concentrate on where you are manuvering the light, without taking your eye off your business to watch the timer. Also, get a footswitch.

The GrayLab 300 is perfect for print timing, and works well for film developing, too. If you buy a used on, get the newer plastic model (gray sides), which allows you to shut off the annoying buzzer.

The Thomas safelight is superb. It's expensive (+/- 250), but it makes it so easy to see! There is some concern that it may be too bright for some faster RC papers, but I have never found that so. Its one drawback is it takes 15 minutes or so to warm up and reach full output.

Definitely buy at least 100 sheet boxes of paper. Get a Premier paper safe that will hold up to 11x14 paper; it will make life so much easier. LPD paper developer is excellent and a very good recommendation, either in liquid or powdered form.

-- Ted Kaufman (writercrmp@aol.com), December 03, 2001.

Just to add my two cents worth. I agree with the above comment about buying cheap equipment. There are a lot of things you can rig up to save money on, there are some that i would recommend buying the best you can afford. If at anytime you decide you want to move up , down or out, you will be able to regroup some monies from high end equipment. Nothing from the low or cheap end, which is wasteful in my opinion. Also, paper will last for at least a year or two if fresh, may be put in the frige if necessary. Buying small packets is not a cost saving adventure. A great enlarger, outstanding lens and a very good timer is what i recommend to my students. Then go from there. Safelights can be a personal thing, as well, as to your room size. I have used a wide variety of lights and it hasn't effected my printing skills one way or the other. I have several grain finders and altho the Peak is costly my old eyes, love it. take lots of pictures work hard on your printing, and most of all have fun. The expensive toys will work them selves out.

-- Ann C lancy (clancya@mediaone.net), December 03, 2001.

Instead of a dedicated enlarger timer, I use a battery powered metronome (from a music shop) and a footswitch to turn on the enlarger lamp. Set the metronome to 60 beats per minute and it's easy to count off the seconds. It is possible to get a premium-grade grain focuser (and much other excellent darkroom gear) on the used market if you can be a little patient.

-- Tim Nelson (timothy.nelson@yale.edu), December 04, 2001.

Yes, I second Tim's suggestion about used equipment. I have bought a lot of the very best equipment I have just slightly used on eBay. You just have to patiently watch for the best deals: not the lowest prices, necessarily, but the best equipment in the best condition, at a price you can afford.

-- Don Welch (donwelch@hotmail.com), December 04, 2001.

I have a question about grain finder's. How large is the area a grainfinder focuses in on? Such as how many grains per ______. It's for a science project and I would prefer the answer back immediately. Please reply to my e-mail address if you know the answer or at least some information on grain-finders.

-- Nate Peck (natenov29@hotmail.com), January 07, 2002.