Converting old Tobacco Barn into Space for Chickens, Rabbits, Quail

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I ended up using an old corn crib for my goats, instead of chickens because I got the goats first... Now I am tryting to come up with something to get ready for new chickens.

I have an old tobacco barn that is in fair condition that I have been thinking of using for chickens / quail / rabbits. I am looking for advice as to what makes good sense to do or not to do... This is my first time raising chickens and rabbits.

The barn needs to be re-chinked, a few rocks put back in the foundation, a door-sized section of a wall replaced, and a few sheets of tin. I'd say it is about 16 feet square and tall enough for two levels. Other than the problems above, it is in good shape and while not worth remodeling into a guest house ;) it would be good as a farm building.

I am consirned about proper lighting, it being too cold / drafty, and it is about 20 feet from our new well.

I was thinking of putting in several or all clear / tinted roofing panels for ambient lighting. Where it is positioned it is shaded from direct late afternoon / evening sun. I can easily run an electric line from the well house for additional lights. How many clear panels should I put on the roof, and how many lights should I put in on each level for proper lighting?

It will be drafty unless I rebuild the eaves... However, it may be just "drafty enough" to be well ventilated for the chickens... I can put in an extra wood heater if it is necessary, but probally isn't since I am in NC ad not ND.

Water being so close I could easily put in automatic waterers... But it also may be too close and teh well could be contaminated by the chickens / rabbits. The well is properly capped down to the bedrock (about 50 feet). Should I be worried about contamination? What could I do to keep this from happening?

I was thinking of putting in a loft or second level floor. I would have plenty of room for quail, rabbits, and maybe some meat birds. I could use wire mesh for the floor under the top cages so that scraps fall below... This would also make it a bit easier to clean out the upstairs.

How many chicken would this size barn accomidate?

How big of a chicken run would I need? Would a chicken run be necessary?

Does this sound like a good plan?

Thanks in advance!

-- Will in NC (carolina_homesteader@yahoo.com), November 13, 2001

Answers

Will, I think the building would work fine for what you want to do -- if you can move it farther away from the well. 20 feet is just too close to risk contamination of your drinking water. Could you either move or disassemble/reassemble the building?

In your climate the building is probably tight enough, ventilation is more of a concern, especially in the summer. Rabbits in particular don't do well in the heat. (If you move the building, try to put it under a shade tree!) You could have the rabbits in hanging cages, with the chickens under. Chickens with access to the outdoors need about four square feet per bird, minimum, so the most chickens you could put in that building would be about sixty. It would be better to have less, of course. Outdoor runs can be any size you can make them, but should be at least as big as the floor space inside the house. If you can manage to have two or more chicken runs, that would be even better. You could allow access to one run at a time, and that would let vegetation recover in the unused pen, so when you put the birds back in it, they would have something to eat other than dirt. Technically speaking, a run isn't 'necessary', as commercial chicken farms (for eggs) keep the layers in cages all their lives, but if you want a little more natural life for your animals, a run (or several) would really be a good idea.

What you may have problems with, in a building that isn't very tight, is predators. It's amazing what 'coons, weasels, and so on, can get into, if there's a nice warm chicken dinner waiting for them in there!

I wouldn't put any clear panels into your roof, especially not in your climate. All these animals suffer more from heat than they do from cold. If you want more natural light, put windows in, as they won't overheat so easily as roof panels. You said you can run electricity to the barn; that would be a good idea. The poultry may benefit from having a light on in the winter, and it will certainly make it easier for you to do chores and necessary work. Also, running water would be extremely helpful. Anything to make the work easier! You'll find enough to do without chores taking three times as long as they ought to!

-- Kathleen Sanderson (stonycft@worldpath.net), November 13, 2001.


Kathleen,

If I have to put windows in it or worse - move it... It will probably be a no go... I have never done anything like that before, but more importantly I don't think that the timbers are in good enough condition to re-build with.

Could I not pour a cement floor to contain the manure and urea? Then use some kind of absorbant litter to soak up the urea... Then keep the stuff moving out to the compost pile....

I would need to make sure that urea didn't run off or seep into the ground.

-- Will in NC (carolina_homesteader@yahoo.com), November 13, 2001.


Are you talking about a large number of birds here? Like a commercial operation?

I'd put the window on the south facing side.

The eaves will provide ventilation and you'll need that for good health.

The birds roost together and produce alot of heat (that is great for winter and why the eaves will be good in summer).

We made a coop in a stall of our barn by tacking chicken wire all around. But we had cement block floor and partway up wall so not as much worry about predators. You'll have to secure the wall to floor connection.

We use the deep litter composting method--this keeps the smell way controlled, is healthier and is great for the garden. You spread 5- 10 inches of straw on the ground and occasionally throw cracked corn around which causes them to scratch around, thereby distributing and breaking down the nasty stuff. You may want to read the worm composting threads for under the rabbits and chickens. Have not done yet. Don't know a thing about rabbits.

You may want to read about Joel Salatin's hoop house method to get ideas.

Are you planning a run?

BTW--I use a VERY inexpensive way to have nesting boxes and it works great. I use thrown out 5 gallon buckets (they can even have holes) and lay them on their side in a more quiet part of coop with a golf ball in them. Works great! And I have LARGE chickens!

Let us know how you do!

-- Ann Markson (tngreenacres@hotmail.com), November 13, 2001.


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