I have been printing on Ilford RC papers for a few months with excellent results, and am now looking to begin printing on fiber based papers. For purposes of economy (and less confusion) it would be nice to use the same chemicals that I'm presently using for my RC papers (I plan to still print on RC papers for general bulk printing). I am using the following: Dektol developer for 1 min., Kodak Indicator Stop Bath for 20 sec., Kodak general purpose fixer w/hardener for 2 min, wash 15 min. I am also using the same chemicals, with the exception of Dektol, for my film processing. It seems that the more I read on the subject the more I get confused and frustrated. I am looking for some sound advice to get me started.

I realize that I will have to use a non-hardening fixer and wash-aid, (I use Hypo clearing agent for my films).

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Ken

-- Ken Bruno (salmon70@hotmail.com), October 17, 2001

Answers

how about this: dektol - 2minutes stop - 15 seconds rapid fix at film strength - 1 minute rinse - 5 minutes tone - selenium or sepia HCA - 5 minutes wash - 30 minutes

i imagine you will see a number of variations of this: 2-3 minutes in dektol; variations in fixing process.

RRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRicardo

-- (ricardospanks1@yahoo.com), October 17, 2001.

So many methods but here is what I do that seems to work for me for Ilford graded fiber: 1. Dektol 1:2 for 120 seconds 2. Acid stop 30 sec 3. 1st fix in Tfix 5 minutes 4. 2nd fix in Tfix 5 minutes 5. Wash 30 minutes 6. Permawash 1 minute then rinse 7. Selenium 1:10 for 3-5 minutes 8. Final wash for one hour 9. Squeege and dry face down on plastic coated window screens

Mike

-- Mike (watgo@aol.com), October 17, 2001.

i think we've got the extreams in fixing time and washing between these two processes. Unfortunately there is no clear answer to which is best. Mike's process, however is closer to what has been used for the past 50 or so years.

-- r (ricardospanks1@yahoo.com), October 17, 2001.

If you wish to keep using the same chemicals you have used for your RC prints, I would suggest (as the others have) that you extend development time to 2 minutes in Dektol, stop for at least 30 seconds, and give 5 minutes each in two baths of Kodak fix (with agitation). If you wish to use rapid fix, mix at film strength and give 30 to 45 seconds each in two baths. Then give at least 3 minutes in Kodak hypo clearing agent (with agitation), and wash for at least an hour in an archival washer. If you tone in selenium, you should give another 3 minute bath in hypo clearing agent afterward, then wash for an hour. I have an article on archival processing at http://unblinkingeye.com/Articles/Archival/archival.html. I just noticed that I don't really explain why two fixing baths are a good idea--I'll have to correct that. Firstly, two baths extends the life of the fixer considerably, and secondly in most cases it prevents you from accidentally underfixing.

-- Ed Buffaloe (edb@unblinkingeye.com), October 17, 2001.

I would recommend switching to a non-hardening fixer for all your processing. A hardener tends to lock the fixer into the emulsion, and makes long wash times necessary. With most of today's materials, there is little benefit to using a hardener, unless you are working a temperatures of 80°F or higher, or using certain films (mainly the off-brand films from Eastern Europe).

Using any ILFORD fixer, all of which are non-hardening rapid fixers, at a 1+4 dilution, you can fix an RC print in 30 seconds, or a fiber print in 60 seconds. The benefit of using the short time is that the fixer does not have time to fully adhere to the paper fibers, making it more easily removed. As Ed mentioned, using a two stage fixing bath will greatly increase the capacity of the fixer. (Note that this fixing time has been tested by ILFORD with ILFORD products; no claim is made that competitive products will give the same results.)

Following this short time in a non-hardening fixer, an RC print will require only 2 minutes of washing. A fiber print should be washed for 5 minutes, then treated with a wash aid (such as ILFORD Universal Wash Aid) for 10 minutes, then followed by another 5 minute wash. If you are using an archival washer, your wash times need to be a little bit longer.

Benefits of the short wash time, besides the obvious time savings: With RC paper, prolonged wet time can lead to seperation of the layers, causing a dog-eared look on the corners. With fiber papers, the longer the print is wet, the less flat it will tend to dry.

For best permanence, with either RC or fiber prints, they should be toned, preferably with selenium.

David Carper ILFORD Technical Service

-- David Carper (david.carper@ilford.com), October 18, 2001.

I would like to thank all of you for your time and advice. You have supplied me with enough information/recommendations so that I might step into the dark with a reasonable amount of confidence.

My best, Ken

-- Ken Bruno (salmon70@hotmail.com), October 22, 2001.