Best tractor for older woman homesteader?

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I've been thinking of getting a tractor that I can handle myself. We presently have a John Deere A circa 1947, bicycle front end and it is really more than we need and hubby doesn't want anyone else on it besides himself...his baby so to speak.Its too big anyway for my comfort. What we use it for: hauling a small new idea manure spreader, 35 bushel I believe, and hauling water to lower lots, in 210 gallon tank mounted on a small utility trailer. Most of the terrain is level or gently sloped. I have always driven only standard shift and know clutches. I am in my 50's, not particulary agile, although I can still wrestle sheep to the ground to do hoof trimming and toss hay bales. So what would be a nice user friendly tractor for me? I have seen several Ford 800's for sale here. Are they big enough? Too big? I should mention that over the past 5 years my husband has had 2 heart surgeries and one hip replacement, so to be realistic, I would like to be able to take over these chores if need be and not have to depend on outsiders. Thank you.

-- Kate henderson (kate@sheepyvalley.com), September 19, 2001

Answers

Thats a Ford 8N not 800.

-- Kate henderson (kate@sheepyvalley.com), September 19, 2001.

You didnt mention what if any budget you have. The tricycle tractor is not the tractor for someone not use to tractors. The ford would be good for the applications you mentioned. A smaller(but more expensive) compact would also meet your needs.

-- Gary (gws@redbird.net), September 19, 2001.

The Ford 8N (and 9N, 2N and Jubilee) have been around forever and are proven world around. I don't doubt it would do what you want with it's 28 HP. There are some significant shortcomings with the 8N, however. It lacks a live PTO and also lacks power steering. If you're looking for something easy to handle, I might suggest looking at something with power steering. If you hit a rut with an 8N that steering wheel can really whip around on you. I've heard stories of some pretty bad injuries from that.

I tend to error on the side of safety so I'll add something else here. If you're tractor shopping anyhow, why not look at something with a ROPS already on it? Most people who have roll over accidents have them on land they know very well and it only takes two seconds for it to happen. I hope this helps.

-- Gary in Indiana (gk6854@aol.com), September 19, 2001.


In my opinion, a bicycle front-end tractor is an accident waiting to happen since it has the same stability as a wheelbarrow.

According to my used farm equipment price guide, the 47' JD A should sell for around $1,400 if in excellent condition. A 47' Ford 8N should sell for around $1,800. There is a guy locally who rebuilds them as necessary and sells them for about $2,500. That seems to be a fairly good rule of thumb from what others on the forum have said for their area.

They were really the first mass produced tractors which replaced horses and mules on many a farm. Even through small, they could do a lot of work if used conservatively (e.g., single row plow).

Whatever you choose as a replacement, make it either is, or was converted to, a 12v system.

-- Ken S. in WC TN (scharabo@aol.com), September 19, 2001.


Kate, There is a 801 Ford Tractor. I would buy something small like a Ford 801,1000 etc, John Deere 2010, anything made in the 60s up with power steering and wide front end. I have had many 8 and 9 Ns and there is just too many better tractors around. The live PTO is a real pain in the butt plus can get you hurt. Bill

-- Bill Porter (porboy298@yahoo.com), September 19, 2001.


An older model Ford 3000 diesel would be just the right size for you, it's very low to the ground and has a wide front end, and goes about 35 to 40 horsepower, plenty enough to do all you might need. Plus it has power steeering and excellent brakes, something that the Ford 8N's are terrible with, you NEED good brakes!!!

They go for 4000 to 7000 around here at the dealers, and are in good shape at those prices.

I am inherently afraid of tractors and don't feel uncomfortable at all on these ones.

-- Annie Miller in SE OH (annie@1st.net), September 19, 2001.


In defence of tricycle tractors, if they are so unsafe how do they get to be so old? :-)

The 8N (which I believe is very similar to our old 'Fergie 35') sounds like a good choice, provided you know the limitations. I would not get too hung up on the power steering issue as they are not heavy machines but be careful, never fit a wheel spinner knob and always hold the steering wheel with the thumbs outside the rim.

-- john hill (john@cnd.co.nz), September 19, 2001.


As I recall, the Fergie and I assume the 8N had brakes on the axles which are not as effective as those turning at a higher speed. However I don't recall weak brakes being a particular problem and surely relining the brakes is a reasonably straight forward job.

-- john hill (john@cnd.co.nz), September 19, 2001.

What do you mean "older woman"? If you are in your 90's or late 80's, then I suggest you hire someone to do the tractor work. If you are in your 70's, consider it, since the cost of the tractor is substantial. If you are in your 50's. I suggest a good, small diesel tractor. If you are in your 40's, and a hot babe - whoa! wrong scenario! If you are younger than 50, then a really good diesel such as a Kubota, may make sense, since they will last for your lifetime, unless you have a "3rd Encounter" gene somewhere. They're hard to find used, but they do exist. Go Diesel if you can, Kubota if you can. Or realistically, investigate hiring out the tractor work. Might be a better avenue. GL!

-- Brad (homefixer@SacoRiver.net), September 19, 2001.

Kate - I have a 2N Ford tractor, which is a step older than the 8N. I think. I bought it because it was just the right size for the right amount of money. It's very dependable. I use it for mowing (brushhog) and spreading manure, on gently sloped land. The brakes, as I understand it, are notoriously bad, and mine are no exception. The steering is hard, being nonpower, but totally workable.

-- Dianne (willow@config.com), September 19, 2001.


Well, I get a lot of stuff done just with our little John Deere lawn tractor, believe it or not! We have a few attachments. Our big Ferguson is a persnickety thing and currently under the weather. I won't drive the **** thing anyway! I'd end up tearing down all our cross fencing, of that I'm sure! But I can load up the little trailer behind the JD and move hay bales, haul manure, fence, etc. Kind of surprising what I can get away with (not hauling big water tanks, though.)

btw, I'm 49 and just a kid, although sometimes when I look in the mirror, I don't recognize that mature woman staring back at me!

Hope you find what you need. Good luck.

-- sheepish (the_original_sheepish@hotmail.com), September 20, 2001.


I think Bill meant the LACK of live PTO can be a pain in the butt. Live PTO means that with the clutch disengaged the tractor still supplies power to the power take off shaft - the equipment still does its thing. Without live PTO, when you disengage the clutch the power to the equipment is no longer supplied, however the momentum of the machine can feed back through the PTO to the transmission to "push" the tractor, so combined with weak brakes, it could be a disaster waiting to happen if the operator doesn't have the proper experience. An overriding clutch put on the PTO shaft can prevent this and save possible damage to tractor or equipment in other situations.

The Ford 800 was manufactured 1955 thru 1957 and ran around 50 hp. It looks very much like the NAA Jubilee manufactured starting in '53. The 9N was made starting in 1939, the 2N starting in 1942, the 8N starting in 1948. These tractors had in the 17-20 hp (drawbar) range.

I personally cut teeth on a hand crank B John Deere, and sure wish I still had the A and the M that I've owned in years past. The M had a wide front end (the MT was narrow), vertical 2 cylinder engine and was in the 17-20 hp range. It also had a foot clutch. Unfortunately the M had a hitch system particular only to itself so the implements were made specifically for it. The newer versions, the 40, 420, 430 had 3 point hitch systems. I find the Johnny Poppers to be very user friendly myself(and I want another!) but not for everyone I guess.

I now own an International 574. A 4 cylinder gas engine with 50-55 hp, made circa 1974. It is heavy enough to handle all but the largest big round bales, but needs front end weights for that. It is a short wheel base (makes it nice in close quarters like blading out the barn), wide front utility tractor with fairly low profile because the exhaust is below (keeps your left foot quite warm) and the air cleaner on the side. I bought this tractor instead of a Ford 4000 - price and hp being about equal - because it has "shift on the fly". It's not hydrostatic, but when in either high or low range you need not come to a stop or grind the gears to shift higher, just clutch, slide and keep on going.

TO ADDRESS THE ORIGINAL QUESTION: You have to consider your pocket book and your intended use, then pick the best tractor for you from what's available. If you move big bales, get one heavy enough, with enough lift capability to do the job. If you want a front end loader, make sure the tractor is built heavy enough in the front. Etc.

Good luck. God bless America.

-- Louise Hansen (Rockinhorse@knoxy.net), September 20, 2001.


I own both a Ford 8N (no live pto, no power steering, no live hydraulics) and a Ford 800 (live pto, power steering, live hydraulics).

First, never use the 8N without the overriding clutch on the pto. After that, you'll get use to the 8N and then step up to the Ford 800 like I did to get the benefits of the live pto, power steering and live hydraulics.

Both tractors perform very well on my homestead and they both do the same type of work.

Here is the difference: MAINTENANCE!

Our 8N is very easy to fix, parts are cheap and heck, I didn't know much about engines and was able to overhaul the engine within days. Now comes the 800...much more expensive parts and harder for the do it yourselfer...although I recommend the 800 it does have its advantages...the easy bolt on/bolt off 8n beats it hands down when it comes to replacing and buying parts.

My 800 has been down for maintenance more times then my 8n because of its live pto, live hydraulics and power steering...and it's engine....so...you'll have to weigh the positives with the negatives...hands down thou...the 8n is cheaper to maintain...

my 2 cents..

-- David (CNY) (dkennedy@midtel.net), September 25, 2001.


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