Setting up a rowing station : LUSENET : Open-water rowing : One Thread

I have just completed building a sliding seat performance rowing craft hull. I am now in the process of building my own sliding seat mechanism and outriggers for the boat. I need basic information on setting up a rowing station for a 6'-5" rower. Is there a website that might have this information?

-- Kim I. Morgan (, August 27, 2001


A sliding seat and rigger arms are not a simple thing to build, but it is essential that it be built correctly (that is, with correct dimensions and stiff, not flexible), or the boat simply won't perform well. In other words, I suggest that you not improvise. The options are to carefully copy/adapt a mass-produced system that works or build to plans. The only plans I know of are offered by Glen-L Designs; they have a website.

-- Kim Apel (, August 29, 2001.

A huge bargain, timed just for you, from classified ads:

Contact: Ernest Cox Bozman, MD 21612 Telephone: E-Mail: Description Older model Oarmaster and one pair of 10 ft. wooden Piantedossi řars. Never used (have been in storage). Oars, $150; Oarmaster, $150. Can deliver in DC or Philadelphia area..

-- Kim Apel (, August 29, 2001.

i havn't seen it on a web site but i've improvised a couple sliding seat rigs myself as well as measured up racing boats to assist me in my improvisations and to rig the racing boats for the crews that i've coached over the years.

as far as setting it up for someone who 6ft 5 - i can't tell you exactly - it all depends on your boat - where the water line is etc...but there's some pretty good rules.

your toes should be roughly level with the top of the seat - that'll give you your most effective leg drive. And the oar handles should end up roughly level with the notch in your sternum when you are in the layback position. that height will likely be about at least a foot above the top of the seat.

BUT the depth your boat sinks in the water with you in it is the'll may have to play around bit raising or lowering either the entire rigger(s) or just the oarlocks and possibly the entire "rowing station" discussed above to match how you & your boat sit in the water.

that however is just the vertical plane..

then there's all the stuff in the horizontal plane - that all depends on how fast your design is and how fit you are, how long an oar you want to use, what rate you prefer shells use a span of 158cm to 160. and oars that are 286 to 292 cm long (hachets) or 298cm for macon baldes..and have the inboard of the oars set 86-90 cm or so. but that's a RACING SHELL - other boat that's wider and shorter is gonna feel awful heavy and you'll need to reduce the load by increasing the inboard or widening the span or shortening your oars and things get very complicated very quickly if that's the case.

I'd be very interested as to what you've built both with regard to the boat's design and materials and likewise the riggers and seat . then i or your local rowing club expert might be able to give you a better idea of the span etc you should be using.


-- Mike Reiner (, September 19, 2001.

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