Hello All. The steel saddle (aux.) tank on my Ford truck has developed some holes on the very top of the tank, near the ridge. Perhaps 6 holes, all in the same area, all smaller than the size of a pea. The holes are the result of rust, although the surrounding metal appears fairly strong and the remainder of the tank is actually excellent. I doubt the fuel level ever reaches this section of the tank (perhaps while sloshing or during turns) as its above the side mounted filler tube. Has anyone ever had steel replaced or migged onto a fuel tank... or perhaps JB weld or ??? Since its a second tank, I don't wont to spend big bucks to replace it. Thanks.

cheers,

-- Max (Maxel@inwindsor.com), July 08, 2001

Answers

Max, I guess this is a petrol engine, not diesel? I have been told 1 cup of petrol equals 7lbs of dynamite in explosive power so dont even think of putting a mig or flame near the tank without proper precautions, but of course you knew that anyway.

I have repaired steel petrol tank leaks with lead solder. You need a really big soldering iron and the spirits of salt type flux. You might need advice from an old time plumber. Fill the tank with water leaving the area you are working on above the water level. Clean the steel thoroughly then go to work. If you need to put on a patch then apply solder to the tank and to the patch then sweat the patch into place.

There are various chemical stuffs that claim to fix leaks in fuel tanks but I doubt if any are permanent.

Cheers

-- john hill (john@cnd.co.nz), July 08, 2001.

The tank on my F150 had the same problem. My solution to patch it and not blow myself up in the process was to use self tap screws and JB Weld Epoxy Patch. I cleaned the surface around the hole and roughed it up slightly with sandpaper, then mixed the JB and put some on the screw threads and under the head. Screwed the adhesive coated self taps into the holes as plugs and then patch coated over the top of the screws and reinforced the patch with window screen as you would when doing a fiberglass body repair. I did this 5 years ago and the tank has been leak free ever since.

-- Jay Blair in N. AL (jayblair678@yahoo.com), July 08, 2001.

BTW, the fuel level needs to be at least 2 inches below the hole to allow sufficient curing of the JB patch epoxy.

-- Jay Blair in N. AL (jayblair678@yahoo.com), July 08, 2001.

Here is how I soldered a tractor tank with a propane torch and lived to tell about it. Removed tank, dumped out all gasoline possible. Let tank set a couple days open so remaining fuel would dry up. Placed hose from shop vacuum exhaust insde tank and ran for 20 to 30 minutes to blow out fumes. Went to work on it with wire brush, flux and solder. Try at your own risk. Don

-- Don (dairyagri@yahoo.com), July 08, 2001.

Two comments I'd like to add. First, if you're going to use the sheet metal screw and JB Weld method make sure you hand screw the screws in rather than using an electric drill, be it corded or cordless. Second, for what it's worth, I had a customer who is a welder by trade have a similar problem and if memory serves me he told me that he used a 'TIG' weld as opposed to a 'MIG' weld. Good luck. I hope this helps.

-- Gary in Indiana (gk6854@aol.com), July 08, 2001.

Gary,

Thank you for adding that hand screw notice. I forgot to include that in the original answer. Also wet sandpaper as opposed to dry. That also can cause a spark. And always work slowly and gently avoiding static potential also. As John advised, gasoline is highly explosive and there really arn't "too many" saftey precautions when working around it.

-- Jay Blair in N. AL (jayblair678@yahoo.com), July 08, 2001.

Don if I sent you a buck to buy a lottery ticket could we split the winnings?

-- john hill (john@cnd.co.nz), July 08, 2001.

Max, there is a coumpound that comes in two tubes that when mixed can be used to stop leaks in gasoline tanks, even if they are dripping. Clean the area with a non sparking brush (brass), mix the stuff and put it on, it can be had at any large auto parts store. If your store do not have it contact me, it costs about 2 bucks. And I fixed my F-150 4wd about 5 years ago, its still there.

-- mitch hearn (moopups1@aol.com), July 08, 2001.

I have to agree with Don if you have enough_ _ _ _ s. I use to watch my dad solder weld gas tanks. He would empty them and then let them set around for several days to let dry. Then he would hook up a hose to opening of the tank and hook it directly to the tail pipe of another vehicle and let the engine run for a while. After 30 minutes or so he would start welding on the tank while the engine was still running. If I remember right, he would keep the engine running for a while even after he got through welding. My dad is still alive and in his 70s, but retired now. To be on the safe side, take it to someone who does this type of welding. Also if the tank has that many holes, you maybe wasting your time. Sounds like your tank is rusting through and it would just be a matter of time and you will be needing more holes patched.

-- Russell Hays (rhays@sstelco.com), July 08, 2001.

I have used self tapping scres, fender washers and neoprene fasket material with a plumbers pputty that is impervious to gas & oil. This is a real quick and easy way.

-- Hendo (redgate@echoweb.net), July 09, 2001.

I welded up the tank on my '79 F250 once - single hole on the top side of the tank. After I drained it and took it off of the truck, I let it dry out overnight and the better part of the next day, then filled it with water from the garden hose just to be on the safer side.

-- Eric in TN (eric_m_stone@yahoo.com), July 09, 2001.

Yep Its J.B. Weld. I patched a small drip in my tank , after I replaced a leaky gas line I suddenly noticed that when I opened the gas cap there was actually pressure in the tank. The Jb Weld did not blow out. After you take care of the rust holes cover the outside of the tank with WD 40 to arrest the rust. Re-apply seasonally.

-- Marc Ament (marcament@yahoo.com), April 29, 2002.