Moving a apple treegreenspun.com : LUSENET : Countryside : One Thread
I have a apple tree that is about 9' high and maybe 6' wide that I am thinking about moving to different location. I recently aquired 2 small apple trees that I need to plant, but there is no room to plant them by my existing apple tree. So I thought about planting the 2 new apple tree's at a different location and moving the existing apple tree close by. So my question is "How do I go about relocating the existing tree?"
-- Russell Hays (firstname.lastname@example.org), June 17, 2001
My first thought is, have you ever transplanted trees before? A 9' tree is really hard to do. Your biggest problem will be to make sure you get as much of the tap root as possible, then as many of the water roots that branch off all the others. For as big of a tree you got, it's gonna be pretty heavy either way. Taking most of the soil around it to keep as many roots in tact will be a big challenge - I think that would be your best bet at success. Do you have any large equipment to help with the job? Well, I wouldn't try it - I've tried 5' pine trees and haven't had the success with those cause of the very same problem. We'll wait and see what others suggest. Why are you wanting to move it anyway?
-- Pat (email@example.com), June 17, 2001.
To transplant one that large will require specialized equipment and a nurseryman's skill. Your best bet is to leave the established tree where it is and start the new ones in the new location. Even with expert handling the shock risk is high and most likely the tree will not bear for a few seasons as it reaclimates after transplant. The six to nine footers that come from nurseries are generally grown in container to that height to reduce transplant shock.
-- Jay Blair in N. AL (firstname.lastname@example.org), June 17, 2001.
If you concern is cross fertilization, as long as the tree's are withen any reasonable distance of each other, the bee's will still work it out. You might even try putting bee feeders under each tree, and one in between to encourage the bees' to see to the trees. We have a pear tree fertilized by a tree about 4 blocks away from what we can figure.
I'm with Jay, w/o large tree moving equipment, you'll work hard, sweat alot, and probobly lose the tree anyway. You only need two tree's to tie up one hammock anyway!
-- Marty (Mrs.Puck@Excite.com), June 17, 2001.
Well if you are willing to lose the tree, feed it well this summer, cultivate the top two inches to remove all grass etc, from the area under the tree, mulch deeply, keep the soil moist so the tree has no stress during the summer, wait until deep winter, cut back all upper branches to a dormant bud less than 12" from the trunk, dig a foot deeper than you think you can stand and a minimum of of 2 feet from the trunk the goal is to go deep enough to get to roots smaller than your thumb and cut these, save as many little branch roots as possible, but it ok to shake off the dirt, the hole for the tree to go in to should be ready before you dig up the tree, as you set the tree into place have some one hold it as the soil is back filled, packing firmly with your hands as the roots are covered, the soil needs to be dry enough to work into the smaller roots, trim any broken roots [clean cuts heal faster] after it is all packed in, make a water 'bowl' around it and water it well, Say a few prayers, and keep it watered until it sprouts, it could take till mid summer. you can check for life by lightly scratching the bark and looking for green, start looking on the branches and then the trunk, you must cut beck the top so much to compensate for the root loss, and it can take so long to sprout because it must re-grow roots before it will grow leaves. Oh, and don't let it grow fruit this year so all the energy can go in to the roots and give it the boost to sprout, hopefully. And water it during the winter months if you have dry open ground. Good Luck.
-- Thumper (email@example.com), June 17, 2001.
Generally speaking, a deciduous tree root system will be as expansive as the branch system. If the tree is nine feet tall with a six foot diameter drip line, then the roots may well go down nine feet and out six. Pretty big piece of machinery to lift tree and soil out without damaging the roots. They make machines just for that purpose. They have four triangular shaped scoopes that cut in under the tree and come together like a big bowl before lifting tree, soil and all right up in one unit.
-- Skip Walton (firstname.lastname@example.org), June 17, 2001.
We had one apple tree and have no idea how it gets pollinated! But, my friend Winifred told me when we went to put in a few more if you have the room, don't put them right by each other. That way if you gets a disease, the others might not catch. Spread them out a bit, she said. Geez, digging out a tiny cherry tree to move about did me in! Good luck!
-- marcee king (email@example.com), June 18, 2001.
Thats a big tree to move. Your never going to be able sucessfully move it yourself and I doubt a nursury will be will to move it either. Keep in mind that the wide of the branches is about the same as the with of the roots and you need about 3x ball around the roots. Thats 18ft ball. Thats a lot of weight and digging.
-- Gary (firstname.lastname@example.org), June 18, 2001.
Russell, I've been wanting to move one of the dwarf apples I put in a few years ago, before I had much of a garden plan, or at least before I revised it a few times! Mine is only about 6 foot tall, tho, and I was wondering about moving it, so glad you asked the question. Think I might wait until winter, and have the hole ready, do the pruning thing, etc. If you try it, let us know next year if it survives the move. I'll do the same. Here it is so cold and dry in the winter, you have to water trees like that, or they won't make it. Good luck! Jan
-- Jan in Co (Janice12@aol.com), June 18, 2001.