european aid ratings

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Hi there! I´m trying to find some info about how the europeans define their aid ratings compared to the yosemite one, number of bodyweight placements for A2 and up and if they include the "pancake" danger some how in their grades.I´m especially interrested in Norway and France. Thanks.

-- Gummi (gummilur@hotmail.com), April 13, 2001

Answers

I am no expert in Aid Climbing in Europe, but a general here is a general guide. A0 - usually part of a free climb which reqires a piece of gear to be used as a hand hold A1 - easy aid, with ample secure gear placements A2 - harder, but generally safe A3 - specific aid techniques may be required + a few 'body weight only' placements A4 - many 'body weight only' placements. Quite a serious undertaking! A5 - Pringles. Once you pop, you can't stop! :) Most placements will be bad and some belays may be questionable.

There may be A6 and above, but what I have told you is what I have read in an English climbing book which I think was written a while ago. As far as I know, that is about it. I also know that aid climbing is practially non-existant in the UK and many of the trade routes of yester-year in the Alps have now been freed and it is becoming less popular.

-- Jon Dittman (jdittman@ntlworld.com), April 19, 2001.


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