Ive read that both tri-x and t-max give better results if you shoot them at ISO 200 or 320 instead of thier rated 400, then develope them for the normal 400 time. Is this true? Couldn't you also just shoot them at thier rated speed and just increase development to get the same results? What changes could I expect to see in my negatives by going this route? Thanks!!!

-- Justin Fullmer (provo.jfullmer@state.ut.us), April 12, 2001

Answers

Try to find a copy of "The Negative" by Ansel Adams, or, "Zone VI" by Fred Picker. This is where this all begins. Even if you never use the zone system, it's a good part of a balanced photo education.

-- d.a.galgozy (rollemfilm@yahoo.com), April 13, 2001.

The ISO speed is determined under controlled conditions and is usefull to the individual photographer as a starting point. The carefull shutterbug does tests to determine a personal exposure index (EI) that takes into account individual equipment and technique. The published development times are also a starting point. The object with silver image B&W film is to find a minimum amount of exposure that gives adequate shadow detail and development that gives desired contrast. Many find EI to be lower than the ISO rating, some end up with EI higher. Increased development will not restore lost shadow detail due to underexposure. Overexposure increases grain and reduces sharpness.

-- Tim Brown (brownt@flash.net), April 13, 2001.

Try rating Tri-x at 50 and develop in D-76 1:1 for seven minutes. You are pulling the film three stops. The negatives will be dark because you are overexposeing the film by three stops, but are undeveloping to compensate for it. This combination is good for high contrast subjects.

-- Kenneth Williams (Wil0164@attglobal.net), May 02, 2001.