I, had a darkroom kit for christmas. and am really enjoying playing around. I have got a Cannon 300 (which took me a hell of a long time to save up for, But it was worth it) Anyway and am using jessops bulk film. It is Black and White iso 400. I have not had any real trouble but i feel that the negatives are sometimes grainier the i would like, I am using a jessops developer and am using a tank to develop them with. Has anyone any ideas on how i can try to get rid of some of this grain???

Thank you

-- Andy (test_tester25@hotmail.com), February 21, 2001

Answers

I don't know Jessops developer nor film, but:

1. The size of the grain is mostly determined by the film itself. Use a slower speed film 100/125 or slower for the finest grain.

2. Over exposure and over development increase grain size. So reducing the development time might help.

3. Using a fine grain developer will make the grain less apparent. Most of these, however, reduce speed somewhat, and they dissolve the edges of the grain clumps so the look is softer. You may or may not like this.

3.

-- Charlie Strack (charlie_strack@sti.com), February 21, 2001.

Conventional 400 speed film will always have a bit of visible grain. T-grain emulsions can be better and Kodak's TMax 400 is a good example. Try to keep your processing chemicals, including the wash, at exactly the same temperature, and don't process too hot. 68 degrees F is tried and true unless the primary process recomendation says otherwise. For years I agitated too often and too vigorously. Do it for ten seconds every minute, and fairly gently. Another thing that really helps is to shoot "full frame" as much as possible. If you have to enlarge a small portion of the negative to get the cropping you want, expect to pay the price in grain. I often print about 7"x10" to just match the 35mm frame. Naturally, slower film will give you the greatest improvement if it suits the conditions.

-- Conrad Hoffman (choffman@rpa.net), February 21, 2001.

I would like to refer to Charlie:

1) I heard Jessops 400 is Agfa 400, which is grainy by itself. But at GBP 2 I think it is the best value for money, Ilford is GBP 3 up. Paterson 400 seems to be Fomapan, so better stick with the Agfa.

2) I have used split D-76 with HP5+ and sharpness and grain were really improved, it should work with Agfa 400 as well. Contrast was rather low, like two grade harder paper than usually. Not recommended for foggy low contrast scenes!

How to prepare Split (two bath)D-76 in UK?

I would use Ilford ID-11 powder (actually I mixed mine from ID-11)for 1 litre plus 50 g Na2SO3 plus 100 g Borax (ask at the pharmacy ) plus 2 one litre brown glass bottles, called A and B. Ready?

Mix the small bag in the ID-11 package in bottle A at 40°C, after completely (!) dissolved add 50g Na2SO3. Finished!

Mix half the big bag in bottle B and add 50 g borax. Finished!

In Bath A (straight bottle A)the film will absorb the developing agents only, the Na2SO3 is added for swelling and preventing oxidation. Bottle A can be reused until almost empty, as no byproducts are produced. Start with 4 minutes return to bottle.

In Bath B (straight bottle B) the development takes place. Time also about 4 min return to bottle after use. Replace bottle after about 12 films, remember you still have half of the ID-11 bag plus 50 g Borax left over.

Regards,

Wolfram

-- Wolfram Kollig (kollig@ipfdd.de), February 22, 2001.

Once you've used up your Jessop film try using Tmax 400 and Delta 400 developed in Xtol 1:2 or Tmax developer 1:4. I'm not sure what the Jessop film is but it is more than likely an Ilford film because of their association with that company. Incidentally I like the Jessop VC RC glossy paper very much.

-- matt veld (mahv@xtra.co.nz), February 28, 2001.