Cheap, good and available films and developersgreenspun.com : LUSENET : B&W Photo - Film & Processing : One Thread |
What are your recomendations on this subject: - a good B&W film, to develop it at home, cheap enough for an Eastern European country salary, and also well known ( so I can find it in that country ) - the best solutions for the film above - imagine that I am an amateur that wants more from him and his camera
-- petre meca (raresm74@mailsurf.com), December 07, 2000
I don't know where the Efke films are available in Eastern Europe, but they are reasonably priced and of high quality.
-- Ed Buffaloe (edbuffaloe@unblinkingeye.com), December 07, 2000.
A couple of great, cheap developers......D-23
Water 750ml 125F
Metol 7.5g
Sodium sulfite 100g
Water to make 1.0L
D-76H
Water 750ml 125F
Metol 2.5g
Sodium sulfite 100g
Borax 2g
Water to make 1.0L
-- John Hicks (jbh@magicnet.net), December 07, 2000.
CZ: Fomapan films, I used up a 30 m roll of T200, a good film or try 400 a more classical emulsion. In Prague I also found some chemestry, you'll need for D-23 or D-76. Fomapan also sells some developers, one is close to Agfa Rodinal. I like their baryt papers.Hungary: Some very nice warmtone papers, I use the contrast variabel baryt one. I tested the Forte 400 film but is way too grainy for 35 mm.
Croatia: Efke 50 is quite nice and really small grain. Neither 25 nor 100 where available from their german distributor. Please note: these films are not sensitive to red light!
So, which country do you come from?
Regards,
Wolfram
-- Wolfram Kollig (kollig@ipfdd.de), December 08, 2000.
To John Hicks: I've heard many good things about D23 ( serious old photographers warmly recommend D23 ), but still , those substances can't be found in photo shops here, in Romania.To Wolfram: In Romania, now I'm in Hungary, for a year ( studies ).
-- petre meca (raresm74@mailsurf.com), December 08, 2000.
I'm not sure on the films over ther but as for developers, Divided D76 (Bath A can be reused over and over and Bath B is is just a simple Borax solution), and then there is Diafine which can be reused also. With either one, when you get sediment, just strain through a coffee filter and keep going. Cheers
-- Scott Walton (scotlynn@shore.net), December 08, 2000.
Probably the best way to go then is to use Kodak D-76, Ilford ID-11 or an equivalent at dilutions of 1:1 to 1:3. Use about 1.4X the 1:1 development time as a starting point for the 1:3 dilution.Just about every film will work well in D-76, and just about every photochemical supplier has something that's the same formula.
-- John Hicks (jbh@magicnet.net), December 08, 2000.