choosing the right mountaineering boots

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Hello all climbing enthusiasts! I am an experienced rock climber that never thought he'd be interesed in ice climbing or mountaineering, but now I am (shit!). Since I have limited funds and need good boots I plan to buy a boot that will allow me to ice climb and ascend some colder peaks (including Denali after I warm up on many easier acents). So my question is, which boot? Plastic seems most appropriate based on my research (Koflach vertical or arctis, Asolo's?). I am also finding leather making a comeback. I have considered La Sportiva nepal extremes. I dont' want to lose toes on an expedition but I would first like to try some vertical ice with a partner. Any info/suggestions is much appreciated. Rick

-- Rick Radliff (starman1@care2.com), November 18, 2000

Answers

Whoa, slow down partner! First off, if you want to have some cake and eat it too (on a limited budget) go with plastic. But on most ice routes in the states a good leather is the way to go. (nothing cold enough down here to suggest plastic) A spanish company named Trezeta has a great line of boots including their new TK 8000 (plastic) I took these babys to Alaska for an attempt on the West Face of Broken Tooth in early May (Temps -20+ somtimes) and no problem with cold. They also have a pump (think Reebok) to help with heal slip when climbing steep ice. If you need their number just email me and I'll dig it up.

-- Burt (epiclmber@hotmail.com), November 20, 2000.

Rick, I am the happy owner of Salomon Guide 9 Montain boots. These are leather boots but there are stiff enough so that you can use them for ice climbing. I have been using them on many climbs in south america and in the canadian rockies. If you are subject to cold feets the new model is now insulated. I have used mine in really cold conditions (- 35c) and stayed warm. I you have the money for only one pair of boot I would recommend this one.

Carl

-- Carl Veilleux (cveilleux@hotmail.com), November 21, 2000.


I have heard other people talking about the Guide 9's, and was wondering what the "new" model the last person spoke of was called. I have also been looking at the Super Mountain 9's. thanks for the help.

-- Gregg Couch (CouchG@culver.org), April 04, 2002.

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