which manual focus camera body?

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Hello. I just tried a manual focus SLR for the first time (extensively )over the weekend after having been interested in them for quite some time. The model I used was a Canon AE1-Program, and I must say that I absolutely loved it. The camera had not been touched in at least five years, yet the test roll I shot with it and the 50 1.8 FD lens were superior to anything that I have shot with auto-focus (Rebel 2000, 50 1.8 EF.) I love being able to feel as if I am in control of the image, not the camera, and I especially like the ease of which it can be focused manually. My question is, however, now that I have decided to build a small manual focus SLR kit (body, normal, wide, telephoto around 200) would it be wise to look for a used Canon that I know I like, or would a Minolta X-700 be better since it is still in production. The main factors in my decision will be ergonomics, meter accuracy, build quality, and availability. Does anyone have any experience with either the X-700 or any of the A-series Canons that you would share with me? Thanks in advance.

-- Brian Bridges (brianb@rutherford.k12.nc.us), May 30, 2000

Answers

A-series Canons are generally quite affordable and take all the FD lenses, but are not as solidly built or versatile as an F-1 (which comes in 3 versions). On the other hand, for the cost of a used "New" F-1 body (the 3rd version, sometimes called the F-1N, as opposed to the second version, the F-1n) in good condition, you can probably buy 2 or 3 used AE-1 bodies. The T-90 is also an attractive option, with a built in motor drive that takes only 4 AA batteries, has switchable metering modes, better ergonomics, and a faster shutter than the others, but still doesn't strike me as being as rugged as an F-1. My New F-1 has worked well with little service since I bought it new around 1982/83.

For extensive info on Canon A, T, and F series cameras and FD lenses check out: http://www.mir.com.my/rb/photography/companies/canon/fdresources/SLRs/ index.htm

-- David Goldfarb (dgoldfarb@barnard.edu), May 30, 2000.


The A-1 is a step up from the AE-1. It has aperture and shutter priority auto exposure and (more significant to me) longer shutter times (to 30 sec.) and a viewfinder shutter for using AE on a tripod. The T-90, if you can afford it, is the Mercedes of the manual focus Canons. It's my favorite of the FD's. It has a built in spot meter system, a dedicated TTL flash and (most significant to me) a high flash sync of 1/250 sec. It's a beast though, nicknamed "the brick". There's a wider selection of lenses with the Canon.

www.aseonline.net/~brownt/photomain.htm

-- Tim Brown (brownt@ase.com), May 30, 2000.

The only drawback to buying a used Canon FD system is that Canon no longer supports them. New parts are not available, and Canon will not work on them. However, there are plenty of repair shops around the country that have used parts available and will work on the cameras if you need.

I started photography with an AE-1 Program many years ago, and owned an FD system built around the last generation F1. I shot somewhere around 20,000 rolls of film over 12 years with the F1 and my other Canon gear, and only had one repair on the F1 in that time. After beating the crap out of the system I sold it for what I had invested in it.

I was out of photography for a few years, then shot landscapes for a while before getting back into professional photojournalism. This time around I bought a Nikon F3 and some used Nikon manual focus lenses. I bought into Nikon because a) Nikon still stocks new parts for the equipment I bought and B) the old manual focus lenses are compatible with the new autofocus cameras.

If you don't care about autofocus and don't shoot more than 1,000 rolls of film per year then the Canon FD (or Minolta manual focus) gear will serve you well. If meter accuracy is a primary concern then I'd suggest either getting a hand held meter or staying away from the AE-1 program. The Canon A1 had a much more accurate meter, but eats batteries like candy. Not as bad as most of the new autofocus gear, but much worse than most manual focus gear.

If reliability and meter accuracy are great concerns check into the Nikon FM2n. It is available new for around $500 and is built very well. I also own an FM, and plan to get the FM2n as a backup to my F3. My son uses the FM as his daily camera.

You seem to have your priorities straight. The most important factor in choosing a camera system is ergonomics. When things are happening fast you don;t have time to puzzle over the camera trying to figure out how to make it work. If you can, visit a store that carries a good variety and used equipment and see what feels best in your hands.

-- Darron Spohn (dspohn@photobitstream.com), May 30, 2000.


Which manual focus body?

Well, go with one that meets you budget. If you get a Canon A-1 or AE- 1, the you can take advantage of an large selection of used FD lenses from many of the mail order places in Shutterbug magazine or your local camera swap meet.

If you are on a budget, get the Canon A-1. A great body for reliabilty and meter accurancy.

Any one of the older Nikon FG or relative or it is also a great choice.

There are plenty of used Nikon manual focus lenses around.

I would pass on the Minolta, the support for Nikon and Canon in the photographic community is incomparable. If you need to rent additonal lenses (i.e. fisheye, macro, etc...) the rental shops usually rent out only Nikon and Canon lenses.

-- nhat nguyen (nhat@lowrider.com), May 30, 2000.


No reason not to stick with your Canon. It's true Canon no longer services these cameras, but the A-series bodies were so popular there are many, many good used choices and service options available. The FD lenses were first-rate, and you can find a lot of them on the used market at decent prices.

If you do switch, I would consider Nikon before any other brand because of lens mount compatibility. Even if you never buy an AF lens, it's nice to have the option of a new factory supported body for use with your MF lenses.

-- Gary Voth (gary_voth@msn.com), May 31, 2000.



I am surprised no one has mentioned the T90. It basically feels like an EOS 1 series camera, without auto-focus. In fact, ergonomics and layout are pretty similar. This camera has multispot metering and loads of professional features. Bad luck it only had a lifespan of 1 year or so, up to 1987, when the EF mount was introduced. But the concept is still very alive.

-- Paulo Bizarro (pbizarro@cggp.pt), May 31, 2000.

Unless you're specificly looking for ergonomics different than your current body, why not just spend the money on some of those wonderful new Canon lenses and shoot with your Rebel in manual mode? The meter on the Rebel is probably accurate enough and you already own it. IMO Lenses are worth obsessing over, bodies are just light-tight boxes (though some are easier to handle than others.)

I'd suggest going to a photo store and trying out some different lenses and seeing if that makes your images better. I normally shoot my 35mm in manual mode when I take it out to play, and the addition of better glass made a world of difference in my images. If you really like the FD lens' look, then by all means get a body that will work with it, but don't shoot down the idea of trying different glass with your current body.

By all means look at the Minolta, but shoot test rolls and compare, it's really the glass that makes the differnce. Go with the glass that you like best (don't forget to compare with slide film to take processing variables out of the mix.)

Paul

-- Paul D. Robertson (proberts@clark.net), June 02, 2000.


Paul does have a good point. An EOS Rebel shot in manual focus mode is a great altnernative. You all the exposure modes you can ask for: aperture priority, shutter priority and manual. Plus some program modes. Unlike older manual focus bodies, the Rebel has a builtin motor drive and film rewind.

My only hesitation with the Rebel is that it's not as sturdily built as older manual bodies like the A-1 or FM2. But if you treat the Rebel properly, it will serve you well. I had one during college and loved it. I had to sell it to move into medium format later that sem

-- NhatNguyen (nhat@lowrider.com), June 05, 2000.


Something else to consider: my SLR is a manual-focus Contax 139, vintage 1981. It has always performed flawlessly, and offers what I consider to be the essential SLR features (manual or aperture- priority automatic exposure, exposure compensation, ISO override, exposure lock, bulb setting, TTL flash control, self-timer, double exposure button, depth of field preview). You can pick up a used 139 with a 50/1.4 Zeiss for about $400, and I bet you'll be impressed with the results.

-- Chris Crevasse (ccrevasse@millermartin.com), June 05, 2000.

I shoot with the Minolta X-700 body. At one point I had invested in an Olympus OM 4T but sold it because I could never get used to the ergonomics. I have had the X-700 for 16 years and have not had any trouble. It also feels right to me. My feeling is that all the cameras discussed (including Pentax which has not been mentioned) are well made, excellent photographic tools, which if looked after will last a long time. Find the one that feels right to you and don't worry about the brand. Lenses are readily available for all the manual focus cameras at very attractive prices. Just plunge in and enjoy yourself.

-- Eric Onore (eonore@aol.com), June 05, 2000.


The big advantage to building an FD based kit is that the stuff tends to be cheaper than EOS gear.

The AE-1P is a very nice camera. It actually came out after the A-1 and incorporates all the A series updates of the A-1, and has interchangeable focusing screens, although they are hard to find.

The A-1 has the advantage of Aperture Priority metering.

In the A series, I would go with one of these two models. Both accept all FD lenses and virtually all the same accessories, including power winders and motor drives. BTW my A-1 does not eat batteries as someone else mentioned. It did have a problem at one point with that, and after repair, I replace the battery maybe once a year.

The F-1 series are legendary cameras. I would stay away from the first two models due to their meters being designed for mercury cells (the same with the very nice FTbn). There are ways around it, but you have to want to deal with it.

The T90 is an awesome camera. It is so nice, I bought two. Since I got them, my A-1 seldom gets used. They do just about everything you would want in a camera. My only complaint is that flash compensation is not as easy as on some of the newer cameras. But it is not hard, and in fact it has some flash modes (when coupled with a 300TL) that did not return to any camera until the EOS 3.

Lots of ways to go with FD equipment, and a lot of fun. And reasonably affordable.

-- Terry Carraway (TCarraway@compuserve.com), June 10, 2000.


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