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New Method if You Prefer!?

This will work well with well rounded monsters, but pretty much any monster will suffice. First generation monsters will do very well on this method, but on a second and third generation they will excel.On this method you might spend around 75,000 more or less, but you can earn like 150,000 from this or more. This works well for people that are kindof new and have some money to spend and want to earn some also. This method can get realy good monsters for those that are better at it.

This method works realy well with a monster that likes tablets or meat.

For your monsters first 5 months of life feed it milk and train it in skill. I suggest skill because it is very helpful to hit the enemy monsters. I do strongly suggest you get a lot of skill though if you can.An average monster will get to about 350 to 400 skill by the end of this stage.A good monster will get about 550 to 600.And a great monster will get 700 to 800.(You don't have to train skill you can train whatever you like and raise skill later when you can send your monster on errantries [there isn't a Hard Drill for skill so it is hard to fit into the program later on], which by the way don't send your monster on errantries until it is over 1y4m).

You should try a simple program where your monster gets very little stress and doesn't get tired; while it is in the stage of life where it only gains about 4 points on its best drill, you should give it rest anytime it seems tired. A program like (First week:Light, Training:Second week:Light Training, Third Week:Light Training,Fourth Week:Rest)[ok from now on it will just be shown like(LT,LT,LT,rest)]During these months on each week you should give it what I have listed (candy/nothing[the slash means or] ,Mint Leaf[ML],Nuts Oil[NO],Mint Leaf).

When your monster gains more stats per drill between 6 to 9 points try to give it nuts oil instead of rest and have a program like: (LT,LT,LT,rest)(NO/candy,NO,ML,ML).Month two:(LT,LT,LT,rest)(NO/ML/cany,NO,ML,ML).Just repeat the program for the months.

The candies thrown in there are to keep your monsters form normal. You don't need any candies if you don't want to give your monster them you don't have to; your monster will just turn skinny and might not live as long.

After your monster is gaining like 10 points per drill you can start hard drilling[HT]it.The program is: Month One (HT,HT,HT,HT)(candy/nothing,ML,NO,ML) Month Two(HT,HT,HT,rest) (NO,ML,NO,ML/candy). Do this to raise some of the stats that it is good at. If it is good at power do the power hard drill, defence Defence hard drill,ect.

If you want to wait to hard train it then wait till it is gaining 12+ on its best LT.

Either way try to get two attributes pretty high. Then you can raise some other attributes when you feel your monsters stats are descent enough for now(you will raise them again later and only focus on them so 400 to 500 points in its best stats should be alright).

You can enter tounaments if you want and can do so as a substitute for ML. If the tournament is at the end of the month make sure you monster is very well before you enter it. If it is where you normally would rest your monster you could skip it or give it nuts oil. Try to look ahead to see when the tournaments are that you want to enter. If so you can adjust the program by not working it on the last week of month 1, rest it instead, or something to that effect.

Also while it is still earning only around 10+ pts per drill you might want to (definatly not a have to)send your monster on errantries. Make sure you send it at the begginning of the month and that it is very well. Also I normally give my monster a ML before I send it on an errantry. Save before the errantry always. If your monster fails you can send it later(as not to reduce its life span)or if you don't get the technique you wanted you can reload and try for a different tech. And do not just send your monster on errantries constantly(not month after month)more like at least(maybe more)two months in between each errantry. If you raise a good monster, which is possible through this method you will only need a couple of Techs the others will be just for show. (My monsters don't get sent on errantries because I like my monsters to live to there fullest. I say only send you monster on an errantry if you know that it is going to get a tech that you realy need)

When your monster stars gaining 15 points(best stat LT)or 20 points (best stat HT) you should start to concentrate on that stat(or those stats). You can pretty much keep the same monthly program as before. month1(HT,HT,HT,HT)(CANDY/ML,NO,ML) month 2(HT,HT,HT,rest) (NO,ML,NO,ML/CANDY).You should try to get at least two stats way up now(the same two stats as before is fine;700 to 850 is a good goal, but with a good monster you should be able to hit 850 to 950 easilly in three stats). Try not to enter any tournaments now if you are not just over powering all the monsters. Just use this time to get to the point where you can over power all the monsters.(I personally only battle in official tournaments until I'm up into S class then I start to battle). Also don't max out any stats now because it is just a waste to max out stats before the next stage.

After your points start to decline (9 to 12 points earned on best HT) you can work on the stats that dropped from the HT or work more Skill if you please [these don't have to be HT if you don't want you can use LT if you really want. The monthly program just changes to something like month 1(LT,LT,LT,LT) (candy/nothing,candy/nothing,NO,ML) month 2(LT,LT,LT,rest) (NO,ML/candy,NO,ML/candy)] , or you could battle a lot and try to earm some money(this is if you don't care about the attributes, but then why use any method then). If you want attributes then you could freeze it (this is the best thing to do in my opinion)and raise a "dummy monster"(thanks to RNA for the name) and bring it back to fight any tournaments you want(best if used to come back and fight the M4). This is a great way to raise some stats that you didn't get up that much from training.

The freezing process is great but depends if you have a lot of patience or not.If you do you can do the freezing process. To its maximum.

The first time I used this method I got my Shishi(Baku/????)to max out LIF,POW,DEF,739 skill, 89 int, 69 speed. I didn't freeze him and fight him like I said you could and he only battled like 47 monsters and that is why his INT and SPEED are so low. 8y5m with no peaches. 1st generation.

Puegdy(Moochie/Tiger):534 lif, 721 pow, 713 int, 765 skill, 724 speed, 577 def. 6y4m. Still in the freezing process. 1st generation

Black Death(durahan/durahan):545 lif,999 pow, 777 int, 999 skill, 466 speed,999 def. 7y2m old. I'm still raising him. 2nd generation.

I'm still raising a couple of monsters using my method. My next durahan should beat the 5000 point mark. With this method when you are good at it every monste you raise should be able to get 4000+ and then when you have a third generation monster 5000+.

Special thanks to RNA.His method made me want to find out if I could do better. I couldn't of done this without his method first.

-- The Man (djedmond@pinenet.com), January 25, 2000

Answers

Another high powered raising method. I would try it but i'm working on a raising method of my own. Your method seems like nice alternative to RNA's method.

-- Dark Phoenix (Arax7@aol.com), January 26, 2000.

What struck me was your skill idea. Lets say you are raising a pure golem(they suck at skill)you would get a lot of +1 or failures in the first few months But, if you train in what the monster is good in you can get +4 or higher at times. Your durahan has some great stats so I can see you are raising him in what he is weak in as well as what he is good in. My question is why not raise in what is good at for first few months then when it is time for hard drills work on skill? also would like to know how style fits into this my monsters always go soft due to excessive praise?

-- tjmax (tjmax@tnweb.com), January 26, 2000.

Note: I've found that most monsters give really good indicators of how much Milk you should give them, and I always listen. Instead of giving it to them for a flat 5 months, I'll keep giving it out until they stop doing their "happy" motions at the sight of Milk, and then I'll start feeding it what it likes. For instance, when my Mocchi reached 9 months, he stopped liking Milk, and so I went over to Cup Jellies, giving him 8 whole months of good, healthy frothy goodness, so that he's now about 5 years old and still in his prime. I'd recommend this method to anyone, but it doesn't work too well if the monster Likes or Dislikes Milk (then you don't know when to stop).

-- Nate Railsback (ChimeraMan101@aol.com), January 26, 2000.

I said that I suggest skill. If your monster doesn't do well in skill it is ashame. The reason you don't wait for the hard drills to train in skill is because there is no hard drill for skill. This makes it a waste of the other stats that you could be getting up.Sure you get a little skill from meditate but that tends not to go up as high as just work your monster at skill early and then raising his other stats later.

As for the milk, I have found that a monster gains more stress when he is older and you are still feeding him milk. It will not always come and say he is stressed out because of the Mint Leaves that you should be feeding him, but the stress is there. So to prevent that for the first 5 months I feed my monsters milk and after that I give them the food they realy want. Stress shortens life even when it doesn't say "stressed out". Also my moochie didn't have any peaches of any kind. Because he was one of my monsters for testing my method I didn't give him a peach because I wanted to see how my method worked with lifespan. I like my moochie, but he could have had a much longer prime with peaches.

I hope a couple of you try this method out so you can see how it works. I thinks it works realy well.

-- The Man (djedmond@pinenet.com), January 26, 2000.

I'd like to know what kind of items you have. With a style like (HT,HT,HT,HT) and 2nd month (HT,HT,HT,rest), doubt as to whether or not stress/fatigue can be properly handled without the proper utilities.

Imagine someone trying to use your method with no gemini pots or no artemis statues.

So, how many of these do you have: gemini pot, artemis statue, dino tail, fire stone, lump of ice, (missing any?)

Nate, I have never known that before! I didn't know that certain monsters will keep liking milk for an extended period of time. I automatically stop at 4 months. Do you think the programmers had something in mind when they "purposely" put that feature in?

-- RNA (RNA@Ribosome.nuc), January 26, 2000.

2 gemini pots, 2 dino tails, 1 fire stone. That is all the items. The way the stress is reduced is by when month one starts your monster must be very well. The items that you give it is the final factor at keeping stress and fatigue down. A monster likes tablets does realy well with this program.(HT,HT,HT,HT) (ML/CANDY/NOTHING,ML,NO,ML).Second month:(HT,HT,HT,rest) (NO,ML,NO,ML/CANDY).This seems to work fine my monsters. Also because of the rest and ML and tablet when it hits month one again your monster has no fatigue or stress.That is why I say you can give it a ML,CANDY,or NOTHING on the first week of the first month.I suggest a ML on the last week of the second month, but if your monster is well when it gets to it you can give it a candy if you like. Then the rest and the tablets are the only thing that reduces its stress.With that monthly program as you can see my monsters still live a long time. My shishi for example 8y5m with no peaches and form skinny(because I still hadn't implemented candy into my program yet). He went on 6 errantries even. I didn't even do the freezing process with him and he still lived that long.

-- The Man (djedmond@pinenet.com), January 26, 2000.

cool methode Looks like I have to try it

-- Pixie Master (?@?.com), February 03, 2000.