A repost of the newest version

RNA's Advanced Raising Method for Optimum Results - Version 3.0

1)THIS METHOD IS NOT FOR YOU IF YOU APPLY TO ONE OR MORE OF THE FOLLOWING: a) You are a beginner. b) You have less than $200,000. c) You don't want to take the risk of losing money from raising your monster. d) You are impatient and do not like to "reload" countless times. e) You don't really care about super high stats and just want to play the game for fun.

2)THIS METHOD IS FOR YOU IF YOU APPLY TO ONE OR MORE OF THE FOLLOWING: a) You have played this game for awhile, opened up many breeds, and want really high stats. b) You want high enough stats to easily take out cpu monsters, ie, Bighand, Zilla King, Akirel, Hammed, White Mocchi, etc. c) You want a monster that will demolish your friend's monsters. d) You have over $200,000 and you don't care how much money you lose in the process. e) You don't mind "reloading" alot. f) You want to beat the major 4 and become a master trainer with little difficulty.

If you fall into category 1), then I suggest you try wildcard's method in the "how do you ppl do it...." thread from the "Raising Methods" category. His method is less money consuming and it gets you from a beginner to an advanced player in no time. You'll have an easier time adapting to that method than this one because it utilizes less game mechanics.

If you fall into category 2), read on. (note: for the extreme players of category 2, you may want to try out Dark Phoenix's, "Raising method for mega-stats WARNING - Very time consuming" in the "raising methods" category. I maxxed out a 3rd gen undine on my very first try! Be prepared for the lengthy process)

====INTRO====

This method has been used by me for several S class monsters (Too many to list). I constantly get 1st generation monsters with stat totals in excess of 4000 points. With 2nd+ gen monsters, it is possible to get monsters with 5000+ points (See bottom of method for examples).

This is a 3rd revision of my method. The original 1.0 is located in the thread, "advanced raising method for optimum results," residing in the "raising methods" category. The reason that I posted a revision (2.0), is because the original thread had become too cluttered with info(100+ posts). Also, my main method was originally split up into 3 parts and many people tend to miss the other 2. This version (3.0), was reposted due to a hacker problem on the board, which resulted in many deleted threads, including my version 2.0(revised).

New stuff added to version 2.0 includes: several side comments, some slight modifications, the elimination of the extra rest after each battle of the "Freezing process", the use of paradoxine/troron for monsters with low stat aquisitions, and the addition of my alias in the title(for easy searching).

New stuff added to version 3.0 includes: even more side comments, correction to the paradoxine method, some corrections to method conversions(transitions), more accurate thread directions(Thanks, Vheod and Jeli Kocoe), and an added paradoxine-raised example.

====PURPOSE OF MY METHOD====

This method's purpose, is to work your monster to its fullest, so that you get the highest stats possible for your monster, hence the title's wording - optimum. As a side-effect, your monster will have an amazingly high lifespan. The negative effects that come with this method include; less time to "unlock" techs, and less time to battle (ie, you will almost never have a monster that has a win/loss record totalling 150+). Also, because of my inclusion of almost "every" detail, the screw-up factor in using my method is very low.

====THREADS THAT YOU SHOULD READ ABOUT====

These threads contain useful information that will help you in the process of using this method

For information about a monster's life stages, read the thread, "monsters life stages" in the "raising/training" category. (by Vheod, RNA)

For a tech list on most monsters, check out the site: http://www.geocities.com/TimesSquare/Maze/6761/mhaven.htm (referred to me by Vheod)

The tech list on that site is incomplete. Nate has taken the time to complete the list. He has placed the other monsters' tech lists in their corresponding categories. However, due to the hacker problem, some of them were reposted under the "techniques/tech chains" category. (by Nate Railsback)

For information about techniques/chains, read the thread, "How to get ALL techniques/chains for your monster" in the "techniques/tech chains" category. (by RNA)

For an alternative source, read the thread, "So ya wanna get those Techniques, huh?" in the "techniques/tech chains" category. (By Nate Railsback)

For additional information on techs/chains, read the thread, "predicted technique chains" in the "techniques/tech chains" category. (by Zoinks - he pioneered the studies on techs/chains)

For information about subbreed specific techs, read the thread, "Breed specific techs/chains" in the "techniques/tech chains" category. (by RNA)

For additional information about subbreed specific techs, read the thread, "As for Cross-Over Techniques" in the "techniques/tech chains" category. (by Nate Railsback)

For information about techs involving nature, read the thread, "The Good, the Bad, and the Neutral" in the "techniques/tech chains" category. (by Nate Railsback)

For information about paradoxine, read the thread, "Drug Report: PARADOXINE" in the "items" category. (by Dark Phoenix)

For information about paradoxine, read the thread, "Report on the effect of TRORON" in the "items" category. (by Dark Phoenix)

NOTE: All information about paradoxine/trorons should be credited to both, Dark phoenix and Farmer jimbo for their work in this field.

For information on what most items do, read the thread, "What Each Item Does," in the "items" category. (by Dark Phoenix)

For information about a monster's stat aquisition in all 6 categories, read the thread, "Monster attributes - What each mainbreed is good/bad at" in the "Best monster to use" category. (by RNA, Vheod, Mikey, Dark Phoenix, El_Buttweasle, & Onomiba)

For evidence to the effects of battling on lifespan, read the thread, "how do you ppl do it......" in the "Raising Methods" category. (by RNA)

For evidence to the effects of form, read the threads, "thanks RNA [RNA: you're welcome]" and "new: TOO MUCH SLEEP MAKE YOUR MONSTER SLEEPS FOREVER" both in the "raising/training" category. (Both by onomiba).

(Note: The effect(s) of form is less evident now. Look for updates when form's real effect(s) is uncovered)

For information on getting good combos, read the thread, "Finding and Keeping a good combo" in the "breeding" category. (by Dark phoenix)

For additional info on combos, read the thread, "Good Combos. Let me know about them!" in the "breeding" category. (by Dark phoenix)

For information on combo prospects, read the thread, "Combining prospects: what's good, what's bad" in the "Breeding" category. (by RNA)

====21 THINGS TO NOTE BEFORE GOING ON (MUST READ!)====

1) Every monster will get different results depending on what kind of monster you use. There are 2 factors that determine the outcome of your monster: a) Lifespan b) Stat aquisition

Stat aquisition refers to the ability of you monster to gain points in all 6 of its attributes, LIF-POW-INT-SKI-SPD-DEF. A monster is considered high in this category, if that monster does well in 4 or more attributes.

2) Lifespan Deficiency Syndrome(LDS) refers to any monster that has an overall low lifespan.

Examples of low stat aquisition monsters: Wracky, Pixie, Metalner.

Examples of monsters that contain LDS: Pixie, Metalner, Gali, Joker, Undine.

Examples of round monsters(has high stat aguisition and high lifespan): Phoenix, Durahan, Mocchi.

3) However, monsters change with different subbreeds and different generations. But the ideal monster to use(if you want really high stats), is a monster with a high lifespan and one that is good in almost all stats(a round monster).

4) So if your monster is suffering from LDS, just use this method until they're old, then combine. If your monster is suffering from low stat aquisition, combine it with a monster that excels in the stats that your current monster lacks in (ie, golem lacks in INT and SPD. Combine it with a tiger so that you get a golem/tiger that is good in every attribute)

5) Good/Great combos: If you want a monster that can pass the 5000pt mark, then you gotta have either a fine/good/great combo. The 2 monsters that you're combining should have pretty good stats with a few of them in the 800+ region. You should start off with 2 or more stats at 400+ after combining. You know that your monster will be good if it starts off at 1500+ points.

6) How to get above-average combos: This information is still sketchy. I have found a way to "force" a monster into a good combo but it takes alot of time and patience. The best way to do so, if you don't want to use the forcing method, is to make sure that your secondary(not raised yet) monster makes at least an "unsure" combo with your primary(fully raised) monster. Look at the threads mentioned above for more info.

7) Once you have a good monster, you should be able to get 4000+ even in 1st gens. however, if you start off with a bad one, don't expect too much. Just make it do its best and combine it later.

8) Items needed: gemini pot(s), artemis statue(s), lump of ice, fire stone, dino tail(s), golden peach, silver peach(initially, not necessary since most monsters can obtain the silver peach during its lifespan).

9) You will never send your monster to expeditions.

10) Drugs, other than paradoxine/troron, should not be used.

11) Bad natured monsters will require more loading as cheating will not be tolerated very much in this method.

12) Make sure your monster either likes tablets or doesn't mind them. If they like them(lucky for you), you may modify usage of mint leafs at your own expense. Reducing too many may result in stress. This method is designed for monsters who don't mind them.

13) Stress is a continuum(ie, 0=no stress, 50=stressed, 100=max stress). If your monster is not stressed at the beginning of the month, he may actually have a stress of say, 20 or 49. Therefore, to keep stress level at a minimum, do not modify mint leaf usage.

14) Always check your monster's form. I "believe" that any form other than "normal" will decrease your monster's overall lifespan. (to date, there is no sufficient evidence to back this up)

15) Try to not feed your monster cup jellies as they decrease weight.

16) Do not train in LIF. If you want LIF for your monster, just train in POW and DEF. For many monsters, LIF will eventually work out to be: [ LIF = (POW+DEF)/2 ]. This equation will become more apparent as both POW/DEF go to 999. However, it is usually a little bit lower than this even in monsters that are good at LIF aquisition. However, if you got all the maxxed stats that you wanted and you have nothing better to train, by all means, go for LIF.

17) For well rounded 1st Gen monsters, aim to Max out at least 3 Stats. For 2nd gen monsters, aim to max out at least 4 stats. Even if you don't manage to reach your goal, you should have come really close. Now all you need, is to combine and get a better chance next time(with additional lifespan/stats).

18) your monster will cost you alot of money(up to 100,000). However, you'll usually get most of your money back from S class battles, but you will probably not increase/decrease your capital by using method.

19) **IMPORTANT** You will not battle until you reach S class (for maximum stat aquisition after battles).

20) Never get KO'd in battle. Try not to lose in any battle.

21) save alot. I'm talking every week, you gotta save. Maybe less if your monster is good or best natured. Make 2 saved games if you can. You'll often have to reload farther back than the week before.

Now, on to my method...

===============THE PROCEDURE===============

FORMAT:

=====(period of time this should take place): (a,b,c,d) (e,f,g,h)

Definitions: a=week1 training, b=week2 training, c=week3 training, d=week4 training. e=week1 item, f=week2 item, g=week3 item, h=week4 item. ML = mint leaf, NO = Nuts oil, HT = HardTrain, LT = LightTrain.

When something refers to "above," it means the thing preceding it.

Any comments and notes in between a =====(period of time this should take place): (a,b,c,d) (e,f,g,h) and the following, only applies to the period of time in between those dividers.

===============STAGE 1 OF MONSTER'S LIFE===============

NOTES: 1)Failure/cheating in drills can be tolerated up to a maximum of 5 times within stage 1, if more, then reload. 2) use only smoked snakes to decrease spoilty and keep their form at normal with usage of candies and powders - replace any "none/candy" with item. 3) Change nature with sour/sweet jellies in place of "none/candy." 4) If using paradoxines/trorons, use them only during stage 1. use them ONLY for monsters that have low stat aquisition in SKI, POW, or both. Read the threads mentioned above for more suggestions on when to use them. 5) If using paradoxine/troron, simply do this "non-monthly" pattern: (LT,LT,LT,LT,rest)(paradoxine/troron,ML,NO,ML,none) - repeat until end of stage 1 or until you want to stop.

=====From 0yrs 0m -> 0yrs 4m: (LT,LT,LT,rest) (none,ML,none,none)

COMMENTS: For the 1st 4 months, feed your monster milk. I train heavily on shoot because SKI is the hardest stat to raise (there is no hard drill for it). Training SKI will be a waste later on when you can do heavy training for 20+ pts instead of the measly 10+ pts. If your monster sucks at SKI(Too bad for you), just go for SPD or DEF.

=====From 0yrs 4m -> halfway through stage 1(until your training gets slightly better results): (LT,LT,LT,LT) Pattern: month1 -(candy,ML,NO,ML) month2 - (candy,NO,ML,ML) month3 - (NO,ML,ML,NO) - repeat pattern.

COMMENTS: Feed favourite food(no potatoes). circulate through the month pattern in order. If your monster is getting too fat, stop feeding candies for awhile.

Again, train in SKI unless you have good reason not to.

=====From halfway through stage 1 -> stage 2: same as above.

===============STAGE2===============

NOTES: 1)Failure/cheating is NOT tolerated at all, reload if you get either one. 2)Decrease spoilty with smoked snakes in place of "none/candy." 3)If your monster has 400+ in SKI, it is doing ok, if 500+ -> good, if 700+ -> excellent, if 800+ -> expect a really good monster, if less than 400, not so great. 4) Change nature with sour/sweet jellies in place of "none/candy." 5) If your monster is around 1 year old, don't expect him to live long. If your monster is 2 years old, expect him to live long. If your monster is 3+ years old, expect him to live VERY long. 6)Before going on with training, figure out what attributes your monster is good at and get an idea of what you want your monster to be like when it's finished. I usually want my monsters to have high POW/INT, SKI, DEF/SPD(or both). I usually don't care about LIF and the opposite attacking attribute, POW or INT.

=====From beginning of stage 2 -> half way through stage 2(until stat aquistion slightly increases): (HT,HT,HT,rest) (candy,ML,NO,ML)

COMMENTS: Feed favourite food(no potatoes). every 3 months, feed your monster a tablet to ensure stress is at a minimum.

some errantries should be done here - replace an entire month with an errantry. Do not fail in any part of an errantry. Make sure you start an errantry at the beginning of the month. Make sure you don't get KO'd by the end monster - if you know you can't win, just run away(does not affect record). **IMPORTANT** - Feed tablet before going AND right after errantry to relieve stress down to tolerant level. - replace next month with: (rest, HardTrain,HardTrain,rest) (NO,candy,ML,ML). If an errantry has just been completed, wait at least 2 full month after the last one before starting another. If too fat, stop feeding candies for awhile. If your monster has not achieved a good enough SKI(for your standards), then keep training SKI with stage 1 method until desired to stop.

**IMPORTANT** Do not waste training!!! If you are training in INT and you know you're going to train in SPD later, do not train INT up to 999. If you want to train SPD later, you will waste valuable points from INT gaining. (Leap -> trains both INT and SPD). So, if you know your monster has high INT aquisition, train your INT to 600+. If it's mediocre, train it to 800+. Same goes for every other stat. DON'T WASTE TRAINING!

Also, try to focus on your best Stat first as later on(stage 3), it will gain 20+ in hard drills but will only register as 20. ie, don't train on SPD when you only get 9's, instead, train on POW which gives you 13-16's.

Do not move on to another Stat until you're done with the current one.

=====From halfway through stage 2 - stage 3: same as above.

COMMENTS: Try to finish all errantries here(except DEF errantries because you can't do them yet). follow above comments.

===============STAGE 3===============

NOTES: 1) Failure/cheating is not tolerated. 2) Loyalty should be at max. 3) Change nature with sour/sweet jellies in place of "none/candy." 4) If you have 2 of your best stats at 1400+, you're doing ok (try aiming to max out only 3 stats). If you have 3 of your best stats at 2100+, you're doing great (try aiming to max out 3 stats and half of another). If you have 4 of your best stats at 2800+, you're doing excellent (try aiming to max out 4 stats). This is strictly observational and opinionative. You may develop your own judgements with experience. 5) you may use silver peach at one of two places. i) use it at brink of death. ii) use it right after your 12 weeks of golden peached "prime" is over for an even more extended "prime." If so, then change the (+12) symbol to (+18). I use it at the end of life because I hate it when my monster dies on me before I can fit in that last battle to level up a stat.

=====From beginning of stage 3 -> 1/4(quarter) way through stage 3(until stat aquisition decreases a bit): (HT,HT,HT,rest) (candy,ML,NO,ML)

COMMENTS: This is your "Prime" or peak. You will now have a period of stat aquisition that is unmatched by any other period of your monster's life. Do no errantries here. Train in your mediocre/worst stat to get best results. If you really suck at a certain stat, ie, you get 5-10pts on a stat, forget it. That stat is not for you. Try another one. Stop feeding candies if too fat. Feed monster favorite food. Every 3 months, feed a tablet.

=====From 1/4 of the way through stage 3 -> 1/4 way through stage 3 (+ 12 months) **IMPORTANT** - Use Golden peach NOW: Same as above.

COMMENT: using a golden peach now takes advantage of an extended "prime." If your monster is getting really high stats, you may start going up the rank ladder by competing in IMA officials when they come along. When you compete in one, replace: (HT,HT,HT,rest) (candy,ML,NO,ML) -> (HT,HT,HT,Fight) (candy,ML,NO,NO) next month: (HT,HT,HT,rest) (NO,ML,NO,candy) then, go back to previous style. Follow above comment.

If you feel that your monster is not getting enough points from drills, you may go on to the (FREEZING PROCESS) which is explained below.

If you have 2,3, or 4 almost maxed stats and you don't feel like you can get much more in training, than go on to the freezing process. However, since this is still your prime, you better have pretty high stats because it would be a shame to not train during your prime. Another reason for going towards the freezing process early is if you want to just gain alot of money.

From now on, the (+12) symbol will just mean that you used the gold peach.

=====From 1/4 of the way through stage 3 (+12) -> 2/4 of the way through stage 3 (+12): Same as above.

COMMENT: You should start battling in S class tourneys only. If you are too weak, you should try A class. If you are still too weak, you're doing this wrong. Get yourself up to S class as soon as possible if you haven't done so already. Food, bla bla bla... tablet bla bla bla... candy bla bla bla....

Everytime you battle in an S class tourney on the 2nd week, change (HT,HT,HT,rest) (candy,NO,NO,ML) -> (HT,battle,HT,rest) (candy,NO,NO,ML), then, go back to the previous style.

Everytime you battle in an S class tourney on the 4th week, change (HT,HT,HT,rest) (candy,ML,NO,ML) -> (HT,HT,HT,battle) (candy,ML,NO,NO) next month: (HT,HT,HT,rest) (NO,ML,NO,candy) then, go back to previous style.

Aim for a couple Stats that you want to raise from battle. If, after battling, those stats do not go up, reload and try again. (This is the most time consuming part of this method but it is crucial in getting high stats in what you want.) You can get 100 - 200 points in one stat and a few others if you really obey by this rule. Starting the battles earlier in stage 3 helps also, but only if your monster is not getting results that you want. Do this after your prime.

Use S class IMA officials to unlock chains if needed(each official tourney has 6 fights).

Do any remaining errantries as needed. This is the time to do your DEF errantries.

If you feel that your monster is not getting enough stat increases in drills, you may go on to the (FREEZING PROCESS) which is explained below.

===============FREEZING PROCESS===============

=====From 2/4 of the way through stage 3 (+12) -> end of stage 3 (+12)

Right after fighting in an S class tourney, feed your monster a "nuts oil" and freeze. Go to the market and get a "dummy" monster and make him rest/train until another S class tourney appears. unfreeze your other monster and battle. After awhile, you will notice that your monster is getting thin, if this happens, just feed your monster a candy and rest for 1 week only, then continue with the process. Continue until your monster is dead. **Save alot** After you die, you must reload and use your "Silver peach." Now, you can either fight 1 to 6 more battles, or freeze your monster so that it can get peaches, fight errantry monsters, expeditions, whatever...

Expect to get in 15-30 battles (before your monster dies) if you start the process at this time:=====From 1/4 of the way through stage 3 (+12) -> 2/4 of the way through stage 3 (+12): (your monster should still be getting (17-19)+ pts in its best stat).

Expect to get into 10-20 battles if you start near the beginning of this time: -------From 2/4 of the way through stage 3 (+12) -> end of stage 3 (+12). (your monster should still be getting 15+ pts in its best stat).

If you want a long lived monster(low stats), do less battling. no matter how much life you lose in battle, you'll still lose lifespan. You'll lose a minimum of 2 weeks(maybe more - unconfirmed) of your remaining lifespan for each "tourney" that you participate in. However, if you want a high stat monster, you're going to have to battle.

If you started the freezing process early enough, you may even be able to net yourself a couple hundred thousand $ while you're at it. If you started late, expect to barely make enough money to cover the expenses of your "super" monster.

===============END OF PROCEDURE===============

Any questions about my method, just post it here and I'll answer them with the best of my ability.

Here is an example of what my phoenix, Firebane, looked like in its stages. If you want a monster to get past the 5000pt barrier, it should have stats roughly around what my phoenix got in its corresponding stages(ORDER: LIF-POW-INT-SKI-SPD-DEF):

Beginning stage 1: 200-150-450-400-300-200. Beginning stage 2: 250-150-600-900-300-300. Beginning stage 3: 500- 100-800-950-300-700. Beginning of freezing process: 650-300-999-950-800-900. End Stats: 814-373-999-999-999-999. As you can see, I gained quite a bit of life and speed in the freezing process. I did a mistake though, I overshot my "meditate" training. I ended up maxing out INT with the "Leap" training and had to stop or else I would waste training.

Examples of monsters used with this method(ORDER: LIF-POW-INT-SKI-SPD-DEF):

Caldera(Phoenix/Phoenix) 1st gen: 542-123-999-890-993-937 TOT-4484 LIFESPAN: 8yrs 3m (TRAINER: RNA)

Snowball(Jill/Jill) 1st gen: 644-302-999-904-275-999 TOT-4123 LIFESPAN: 7yrs 4m (TRAINER: RNA)

Harvey(Mocchi/Mocchi) 1st gen: 590-522-865-926-912-571 TOT-4387 LIFESPAN: 7yrs 1m (TRAINER: Dark Phoenix)

Robo(Dragon/Henger) 1st gen: 675-999-552-687-761-802 TOT-4476 LIFESPAN: 6yrs 1m (TRAINER: Vheod)

Mobius(dragon/Henger) 2nd gen: 652-965-304-967-688-976 TOT-4552 6yrs 8m (TRAINER: RNA)

Phantasma(Undine/Joker) 2nd gen: 471-047-999-999-999-753 TOT-4268 LIFESPAN: 6yrs 5m (TRAINER: RNA)

Minerva(Pixie/Gali) 2nd gen: 411-567-999-999-999-302 TOT-4277 LIFESPAN: 6yrs 3m (TRAINER: RNA)

Firebane(Phoenix/Phoenix) 2nd gen: 814-373-999-999-999-999 TOT-5183 LIFESPAN: 8yrs 0m (TRAINER: RNA)

Cyber-Zero(Durahan/Metalner) 3rd gen: 901-999-161-999-328-999 TOT-4359 LIFESPAN: 7yrs 7m (TRAINER: RNA)

Masamune(Henger/Monol) 3rd gen: 685-913-704-980-921-852 TOT-5055 LIFESPAN: 6yrs 7m (TRAINER: RNA)

====My Paradoxine-Drugged, 1st gen Wracky====

It took me 4 years(4 expeditions) to find 7 paradoxines so that I can pump them into my wracky. Here are the end results:

Kenny - Wracky(Wracky/Wracky), SOURCE: Godzilla Soundtrack, 1st gen, LIFESPAN: 7yrs 2m, APPROX. LIFESPAN LEFT: 6 months, gold and silver peaches, 86W 0L 63KO, 16 techs, unlocked 4 techs, 14 errantries, 7 paradoxines.

STATS(ORDER: LIF-POW-INT-SKI-SPD-DEF) - Chronological order:

0yrs 0m: 057-018-178-036-154-035 TOT-0478 (beginning of Stage 1)

1yrs 3m: 150-856-301-876-068-009 TOT-2260 (beginning of Stage 2)

3yrs 8m: 236-765-913-954-840-001 TOT-3709 (beginning of Stage 3)

5yrs 0m: 365-765-792-954-840-738 TOT-4454 (end of prime - use gold peach)

5yrs 8m: 564-771-849-962-849-819 TOT-4814 (end of "extended" prime)

6yrs 7m: 726-813-874-988-910-913 TOT-5224 (beginning of Freezing Process)

7yrs 2m: 813-930-993-999-956-999 TOT-5690 (end stats)

Not too shabby for a first generation wracky, huh? note: wracky is one of the worst stat aquisition monsters in the game.

See if you can break the 5000+ point barrier with this method. Remember to post them here if you do and DON'T USE GAMESHARK! You're just fooling yourself.

My email is fake, so just post what you want to say, in this thread.

Version 1.0 -- RNA (RNA@Ribosome.nuc), December 13, 1999

Version 2.0 -- RNA (RNA@Ribosome.nuc), January 23, 2000

-- RNA (RNA@Ribosome.nuc), February 27, 2000

Answers

I've decided not to post all the comments that came with the former, Bobby Hackman(Fatman) - deleted, version 2.0(revised). It exceeded 100+ posts and landed somewhere in the 170(?) area. If anyone really wants to follow up on the discussion of the very few criticisms of my method, the events that lead up to my 5690 wracky, the events that lead up to Dark Phoenix's first post of his method, my very first 5994pt monster(undine), The Man's second 5994pt monster raised under Dark Phoenix's method, and/or just the html playground that Vheod, The Man, and Shield Beast were playing in, you can request for me to email it to you. I could also just post it on the board's "off-topic" category. However, I doubt many would actually be interested in such conversations.

Oops, I just found an example that was not placed in my "examples" section(ORDER: LIF-POW-INT-SKI-SPD-DEF)

???(Phoenix/Phoenix) - 1st gen: 650-100-999-999-999-999. (TRAINER: John Johnson)

Geez, that's alot better than my 1st gen phoenix, Caldera. Good job, John Johnson.

-- RNA (RNA@Ribosome.nuc), February 27, 2000.

I would have to say that my $80(CAN) was well spent on Pokimon stadium. I really enjoy leveling up anything in any game that requires leveling up. You could see me as somebody who spends 100+ hours just leveling up my characters to level 100(ie, DW2(hard),DW3 (hard),DW4(hard),FF4(medium),FF6(medium),FF7(easy),FF8(easy),etc.)

Before I got pokimon stadium, I would play pokimon yellow on my gameboy. I would level up my pokimon to battle my friends. I had about 16 or so at around level 80, 6 at level 100, and only a few at around level 50. It took me 30 minutes(approx) to defeat the elite four - my source of experience building. Each time netting me 2 - 4 levels if my pokimon is passed level 50. Imagine how long it took me to do all those.

With Pokimon Stadium, I can get through the elite four in 7 minutes! It just makes everything so much easier and less time consuming. I've got 37 pokimon at the level 50 area - poki cup limitations.

Not only that, there are many prize pokimon in the game. I only beat the elite four once, and I got another eevee. Now I can get that Vaporeon that I've always wanted but never had. I heard that you need to put EVERY pokimon into the hall of fame before you get the special "amnesia" psyduck. You can bet I'll be capturing that duck.

Also, you get free storage space in pokimon stadium! I can store all my pokimon onto the cartridge and start the game all over again - or simply free up some space. Don't need to use my girlfriend's gameboy anymore!

Pokimon Stadium is NOT a good game by itself. It is only good if you have pokimon red, blue or yellow. It is a game enhancer - an expensive one at that. But it's a game enhancer that can do alot more than a gameshark/gamegenie could do.

About Suikoden 2:

There was a time when RNA had no pokimon stadium, no GT2, no dragon warrior monsters, a time of turmoil for poor RNA's interests. One day, while rumaging through zir heap of newly transcribed disc stones, RNA found 3 that interested zir. The first one, "Thousand Arms", was inserted into the PSX. RNA found this particular game interesting and kinda perverted at the same time - better not let my GF catch me playing this, thought RNA, so zir threw it back into the pile.

Next up, was a game called "Suikoden 2". RNA remembered the time when zir played suikoden 1. It was an above average game which had many characters to choose from, and it also showed a slight resemblance to a game zir had played years before - "Bandit Kings Of Ancient China". RNA put the disc stone in its place and hoped for the best. To zir amazement, the game was almost exactly alike any other RPG. In fact, RNA was getting bored of traditional RPGs and zir wanted to play something different.

RNA put in the last disc stone, "Monster Rancher 2". Little hope was left for RNA's boredom, as zir tried to make the best of the last disc stone. To zir surprise, zir found the game to be quite different and DIFFICULT too. The game was like a "sim game". Who would've thought that a game that focused purely on raising monsters(real life style), be of any fun? Apparently, RNA thought so. And so, the game brought new life into RNA's demised soul as it continued to interest zir longer than any other game that zir had ever played......

-- RNA (RNA@Ribosome.nuc), March 19, 2000.

Wow, they deleted a lot of posts here...but why?

-- Vheod (belgrath16@aol.com), March 25, 2000.

They were all off-topic. The only reason I saved the game review above is because it looks like it took alot of work to write, so I thought I'd give him a chance to keep it somewhere in case he wanted to. These two messages will probably be deleted.

I know that you're simply trying to raise your message count in the statistics section. I will keep deleting off-topic and noninformative messages from you and anyone else who posts them, so it's not going to work. If you have a problem with this, or any kind of concern, feel free to email me about it.

-- B Campbell (apparatus@@juno.com), March 25, 2000.

No B, I really stopped doing that, we are just using this thread because its RNA's after-all, and its the one area where we get too chat about things other-than MR2, you should be able to relate to that...

-- Vheod (belgrath16@aol.com), March 25, 2000.

I don't really mind if you delete this stuff. I can understand where you're coming from. It is hard work going through every thread just to delete the off-topic or useless messages. It seems as if the administrators are hard at work doing this and I think that what they are doing is best for the archives. Most of the stuff wasn't really that important anyways.

-- RNA (RNA@Ribosome.nuc), March 26, 2000.

I think a thread like this shouldn't have regular messages deleted, its quite difficult to get in touch with the elusive RNA, zie isn't one to give out zir e-mail address.

On another note, im going to get Pokemon Stadium sometime this week (hopefully...) and I just have a couple questions, Whats with the whole rental of Pokemon things? I read about it kind of, and im just a little confused, other questions will probably answered when I actually get the game...

Thanks in advance, and B, I know you want to delete this post, but at least let RNA read and respond to it first...

-- Vheod (belgrath16@aol.com), March 27, 2000.

Vheod, I don't recommend you buy the game unless you have the gameboy game. I can't see myself playing the game without it. I'm still hooked into it, by the way.

They shouldn't refer it as "rental" pokimon. Rather, they should be "borrowing" pokimon.... but that sounds dumb. Every different type of tournament has a set of all possible pokimon that can be "borrowed" - except for mewtwo(you can borrow mew though). You'll see once you get the game.

-- RNA (RNA@Ribosome.nuc), March 28, 2000.

Yeah, I have both Blue and Red games, I should be able to get it by Friday, but thats not sure... I lost my red version, but found it, but it got reset, along with the Blue, so im playing them both right now, getting as many pokemon as possible... It might not be the best team, but i'd like a scary team, of Haunter, Alakazam, Scyther, Charizard, and 2 other scary looking pokemon, maybe Garados and Golduck or something... Any ideas?

-- Vheod (belgrath16@aol.com), March 28, 2000.

Try exeggutor or cloyster. Thunder wave got ALOT more useful in stadium so you may want to use some electric pokimon (ie, jolteon). My best team(or one of them): Alakazam, Cloyster, Magnemite, Jolteon, Kabutops, Gyarados.

This is slightly off topic. Want to continue in the off-topic category?

-- RNA (RNA@Ribosome.nuc), March 31, 2000.

Yeah, but what thread?

On another note, I was unable to obtain Pokemon Stadium today, I would say that im getting it tomorrow, but tormorrow is April Fools Day, in other words, heart-break day...

I just beat that stupid girl Sabrina, she used the freakin Recover for her Alakazam over and over and over again, definitly more than 20 times...

Did you ever use the 99 items trick with Missing#? I was thinking of doing that with Rare Candies, but thats a little cheap, so im going to use it with Masterballs instead, call me a cheater if you want, but im still gonna do it...

-- Vheod (belgrath16@aol.com), March 31, 2000.

I just got Mewtwo, me so happy... Right now im raising a Chansey, I want to get it the high stats like 700 life, I already gave it Toxic, Physcic and Softboiled, doesn't it learn Minimize on its own?

I didn't do anything Saturday, and at the end of the day my dad said I could have gotten if I did my work, why couldn't he have said that at the beginning of the day? Oh well, time for me to do my work and maybe get the game...

-- Vheod (belgrath16@aol.com), April 02, 2000.

Vheod, go to the new off-topic thread.

-- RNA (RNA@Ribosome.nuc), April 02, 2000.