A friend of mine recently gave me some P.F. liquid PMK solutions, part A and B. I have no experience with PMK and was hoping for some suggestions on how to use this stuff. I've seen the beutifully stained negatives produced by this developer and have decided to give it a shot. I plan on getting my hands on the "Book of Pyro" as I've heard others say it is very informative. But until then I want to shoot a couple of rolls of 120 Delta 100, and I was hoping to get enough information so I can try it this weekend. How should I rate the film? Any special stop, fix, hypo-clear, etc. for this process? I would appreciate any helpful input.

Thanks

-- Walter Massa (massacam@aol.com), January 28, 2000

Answers

I forgot to add this important little piece of info. My friend had this sitting in a dark cabinet since he purchased it last June. There is a portion removed from each container but not that much. They were sealed tightly though. I'm not sure what the shelf life of this stuff is so I figured I had better mention this.

-- Walter Massa (massacam@aol.com), January 28, 2000.

1. rate Delta 100 at 80-64 to start.

2. just prior to use, mix 1 part A, 2 parts B, into 100 parts water. Use a syrnge (sp? i.e., a needle) for the small amount of pyro you will be using.

3. agitation cycles are every 15 sec., for 2 sec. as a good starting point.

4. time at 68 deg. good starting point is around 8-9min.

5. use a water stop bath for 1.5 min. (no acetic acid)

6. fix in an alkaline fixer (like F24) for a few minutes.

7. pour the USED developer back in the tank, and agitate every 30 sec. for 2 min. This is what allows the stain to form.

8 wash for at least 20 min.

These are just starting point. You will probably have to dial it in from there.

These data give me a neg which under a typically contrasty scene will print fine with about 50-100c.c.'s of magenta filtration

-- shawn gibson (SeeInsideForever@yahoo.com), January 29, 2000.

Just to add to the data already given, the stock solutions keep for a very long time, I've had my current working stock for a little longer than that. You'll see a color change when you mix the stock solutions and the water- that's good PMK.

Also, this developer is exhasted *fast* when it comes into contact with air. If you fill your tank completely, you'll have a *lot* better results and more consistancy. I use 1L at a time, which is 10ml and 20ml of each stock solution - it lasts a while :)

You'll want an alkalai fixer for the stain, PF's TF4 is great - and it's said that you don't have to do the after bath in the exhausted developer if you use it. I do both TF4 and the after bath most days though.

The 20 min. final rinse enhances the stain, don't skip that step.

Finally, pyro is toxic. Don't get it on your hands if at all possible. I'd recommend wearing latex gloves during development.

It's an awesome developer, and Delta 100 in 120 works well with it for me.

Paul

-- Paul D. Robertson (proberts@clark.net), January 29, 2000.

>>You'll see a color change when you mix the stock solutions and the water- that's good PMK.

CRUCIAL!!!

Once you notice what the colour SHOULD be once you put A and B into the water, if you ever notice the colour is DIFFERENT, then something is WRONG. Don't ruin your film by discounting dis-colouration. PMK is extremely sensitive to chemicals/contamination; and I have noticed dis-colouration is a prime indicator of contamination.

Believe your eyes. Dump the stuff. Clean everything, and start again.

shawn

ps I've noticed with different emulsions the colour change AFTER development varies, even with the same emulsion. Don't let this worry you; it's normal in my own experience. (i.e., when you go to the afterbath stage).

-- shawn gibson (SeeInsideForever@yahoo.com), January 29, 2000.

Thanks guys,

This all helps alot. I've heard about the afterbath step but I wasn't sure about the type of fixer needed. I'll have to put an order in to P.F. for some. I'll let you all know how my first attempt pans out.

Thanks

-- Walter Massa (massacam@aol.com), January 29, 2000.

I don't know if you have an aversion to mixing dry chemistry, but F24 is extremely easy and cheap to make. Let me know if you're interested and I can post it, from Adams' The Negative.

Incidentally, F24 was Edward Weston's main fixer (if it's simplicity worries you at all...).

-- shawn gibson (SeeInsideForever@yahoo.com), January 29, 2000.

I have times for developing 120 film in PMK on my site at Unblinkingeye.com. If your PMK stock solution A gets very dark, discard it, as it will give uneven results--otherwise, it should be good. I keep mine in a dark glass bottle and it keeps for about a year. The less air that is in the bottle, the longer it will last. A full bottle with no air should keep for a couple of years.

-- (edbuffaloe@unblinkingeye.com), February 01, 2000.