I just want to get the opinions of all you pros out there. For the film T-MAX 100 what developing chemical is your preference and why? Also what have you found as far as time and temp that works best? Don't forget to metion the advantages and disadvantages of your method. Thanks.

-- John Jensen (superfilmguy@hotmail.com), January 07, 2000

Answers

By now most people on this forum know that I use PMK for all my black and white work. Gordon Hutchings explains the advantages of his formula in excruciating detail in his 'The Book of Pyro'. For me, it all boils down to superior gradation in the high values. The formula for PMK and my times and temperatures for various films are available on my site at http://unblinkingeye.com. All my times are for 120 roll films developed in small tanks, and I use less agitation than Hutchings, so my times are longer than his.

-- (edbuffaloe@unblinkingeye.com), January 07, 2000.

Microdol-x without a doubt. Gives me fine grain and plenty of developing time to play with contrast. will post times and temp when i find them.

-- Josh Randall (joshrandal@excite.com), January 07, 2000.

TMax RS developer. 30 revolutions per minute in a JOBO drum at Kodak's time + 8-10%, depending on temperature. Not the most stylish choice, but at least I can always get my hands on some.

-- John O'Connell (joconnell@adelphia.net), January 09, 2000.

For 120 size TMX I use Xtol, 1+2, 75 deg. F, 11 min. At EI 100 I get very fine grain and good tonality.

-- Tim Brown (brownt@ase.com), January 10, 2000.

Good old D-76 1:1 at Kodak's stated times (I think 12 minutes at 68, agitation at 30-sec intervals). Very punchy negs, verging on too much contrast occasionally, but still eminently printable. Nearly invisible grain in anything less than 11x14 from 35mm.

Personally, I've had borderline-underdevelopment every time I've tried TMX in XTOL 1:1, but I plan to try it again soon, as I think it is a bit better in terms of contrast, and perhaps grain too. But D-76 works fine most of the time...

-- Michael Goldfarb (mgoldfar@mobius-inc.com), January 11, 2000.

Xtol 1:1 at Kodak times plus 25%. Even at plus 10% I still got underdeveloped negatives.

-- Tom Raymondson (rayson@pacific.net), January 11, 2000.

TMX and TMY with HC110 at the times I calibrated my system to. For me it starts at 6 mins 15 secs at 72*f and goes from there. 4x5 sheets.

-- Mr.Lumberjack (james_mickelson@hotmail.com), January 14, 2000.

TMX and TMY with HC110 at the times I calibrated my system to. For me it starts at 6 mins 15 secs at 72*f and goes from there. 120 and 4x5 sheets. But what difference does it make to you? You should learn to calibrate your system properly with whatever film, developer, and paper combinations you want to use. Someone elses times are irrelevant to you, and your methods and equipment. Do some proper testing and get your own times and dilutions. I photograph landscapes and still life with emphasis on small detail and at 16x20 from 120 and 4x5 Tmax delivers very fine detail and lots of tonal range. James

-- Mr.Lumberjack (james_mickelson@hotmail.com), January 14, 2000.

For TMX100, I like Rodinal @ 1:50 dilution. I also agree with Mr Mickelson ; I rate this film at anywhere between 32 and 160 depending on the contrast in the image, and alter the development time accordingly. But you need to work out the development times yourself around your own working methods.

-- fw (finneganswake@altavista.net), January 20, 2000.

With TMX100 I use Ilfosol, which I believe is a PQ variant of D76, at the recommended dilution & time, with up to 10% extra if the lighting has been flat. I find that the density doesn't easily block up with this combo, and it gives the best compromise of grain and gradation that I've come across.

I tried about a dozen different developers with T-max when it first came out, and settled on Paterson's Acuspecial; then they took it off the market! Ilfosol was the closest substitute, after running through another half-dozen contenders.

-- Pete Andrews (p.l.andrews@bham.ac.uk), January 24, 2000.