Fixing prints

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I normallly use fresh chemistry for each printing session. However, during the last one, I re-used a rapid fixer with hardener that I'd fixed only 3-4 prints with the day before. After "fixing" and running the new 3-4 prints through the customary 3 minutes in hypo-clearing solution, I tested the fixer condition and the hypo-checker turned very milky, indicating exhaustion. The evidence is that the prints were underfixed. The prints are hypo-cleared and thoroughly washed and I don't want to destroy them if they can be successfully rescued. What happens if the prints get re-fixed? Can it/should it be done and is there any advantage to this? If so, what would be the re-fixing/washing procedure? Help, anyone? Thanks. David

-- David Silvan (dis@mail.internet.com.mx), January 01, 2000

Answers

I reuse my fixer all the time. I have done this with both Ilford and Kodak fixers. You probably should not be using a hardener for paper prints. Not sure what effect the hardener has on storing fixer after usage. Besure you store the non-hardening fixer in a bottle w/cap.

I would re-fix your prints, and wash them again as you normally would. Under-fixed prints will go bad in time. By the way. What strength are you mixing your fixer (i.e. ration of water to fixer).

-- John Clark (john.e.clark@mindspring.com), January 01, 2000.


John: I'm presently using Kodak Rapid Fixer. For paper I mix 118 ml. of solution A (fixer) and 13 ml. of solution B (hardener) to make one liter of working solution. This mixture is derived from the standard instructions. Kodak doesn't actually say anything about using (or not) hardener on prints. However, I tend to agree with you on this point, of not using the hardener. I'll probably stop mixing it into the solution as of my next printing session. It probably affects toning (in selenium) as well as making it more difficult to retouch. Thanks for your reply. David

-- David Silvan (dis.@mail.internet.com.mx), January 08, 2000.

David, Two things. First, your hypo-check solution will react differently with rapid (ammonium thiosulfate) fixers than with traditional (sodium thiosulfate) fixers. The milkiness you got just may be "normal".Check the directions carefully before spending time on your prints, I think you should be testing a small amount of fixer in a separate vessel and looking for a precititate in your case. Also, I find it easier and more accurate to test the prints for residual silver than to test the solution. There are many test kits available, or you can mix your own (the formula escapes me, but it shouldn't be hard to find). I've heard that one can use Selenium toner for theis as well. I use a two-bath fixing method and keep track of the fixer capacity instead of testing the fixer itself. Terragreen, http://www.cherryvalley.com/terragreen, however, does have some nifty-sounding test strips for testing fixer that should be much more accurate than the drops. (I haven't tried them yet.) And lastly, refixing your prints presents no danger whatsoever. Soak them in water first, fix them in fresh fixer for the recommended time and wash and dry as usual. Hope this helps. ;^D)

-- Doremus Scudder (ScudderLandreth@compuserve.com), January 03, 2000.

Doremus: Thanks for your reply. I'm looking into the formulas you suggest and will try them out. I'll fix the underfixed prints also and test them and see how they turn out. I'm assuming that the fixing process will "pick up" from where it stopped due to exhausted fixer, and that refixing in fresh chemistry will render the prints properly and completely fixed. Again, thanks for your help. David

-- David Silvan (dis@mail.internet.com.mx), January 08, 2000.

Formulas and instructions to test a print for adequate fixing and washing are available on my site at Unblinkingeye.com. I use a two- bath rapid fix, and I fix 30 8x10 prints before replacing the second fix. After 30 prints, the second fix becomes the first fix.

-- (edbuffaloe@unblinkingeye.com), January 03, 2000.


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