Which brand of diffuser is better for speedlite 380ex.? Luminquest pocket bouncer or Stofen omnibounce. If I use Stofen omnibounce, do I still have to tilt the flash to bounce off the ceiling or not. I have tried taking picture with 380ex bounce off the ceiling. it is pretty good for people standing but not for taking picture of infant only 3ft tall or your subject sitting on couch. I like to know which diffuser produce the best result for taking pictures of infant. what is advantages and disadvantages of both diffuser? I've tried to use P mode with my Rebel G but the shadow is too harsh and when I used AV mode, the slow syn speed of 1/15 second is too long for an infant to stay still. So If anyone could please advise me the best option let me know as soon as possible.

Thanks and Merry Christmas

-- peter li (pli@hatch.ca), December 20, 1999

Answers

I use the Sto-Fen Omnibounce and vary the angle of the flash head from horizontal to vertical with excellent results. Having tried the pocket bounce I have been happier with the omnibounce.

-- Dave Mitchell (mitchell@effectnet.com), December 21, 1999.

I have taken photos of my 11 and 6 year old, and their cousins, for many years using bounce flash, and for the past two years, the lumiquest bouncer kit. In addition, I have shot just one roll with an Omnibounce attached to a 550EX.

The lumiquest set for ceiling bounce (80/20) produces results which are almost identical to straight bounce flash with a white index card attached to the back of the flash head (with a rubber band), so that some light is reflected forward to fill in shadows under the eyes. Index card and rubber band vs lumiquest and Velcro, you pick.

Using the lumiquest with white insert (no ceiling bounce, all light is reflected forward) produces results that looks like a softer version of straight flash. I would not recommend it for vertical format without taking the flash off the camera (and holding above the lens) , since the shadow behind the subject is even more obvious than with straight flash.

My experience with the omnibounce is more limited, though my preliminary view is that (a) when tilted, the results look like bounce flash with direct flash fill (not quit as soft as plain old bounce flash), and (b) when used without tilting, the results look more like a softer version of straight flash.

For indoor flash, I would also recommend setting the camera on manual, 1/60 - 1/90 and F5.6 - F8.0, depending on film speed and your distance from the subject. (Always check for the green "exposure OK" light when using bounce). For fun, try setting the exposure at 2 - 3 stops underexposure for ambient(if the room ambient exposure is 1/8 at F4.0, then set at camera at 1/30 at f5.6). This should eliminate ghost images on your subjects and result in a more natural looking background.

Search photo.net Q & A using "stofen" and "lumiquest".

Hope this helps

-- Ken Katz (ken.katz@gecapital.com), December 21, 1999.

In TV or maual mode you could set your shutter to 1/30 or 1/60 for -1 to -2 stops background exposure. Should look good.

I have used the Pocket Bouncer. It's better than nothing but I like a larger bounce source for more difuse lighting. You can make your own cheaply. Flash reflectors of all types do basic things. They enlarge the surface of the light source which reduces the harshness of the shadows while up close. The bigger and closer the scource, the softer the shadow lines. The other thing they do is scatter light around the room, forcing the flash unit to put out more light. This scattered light reflects around the room to brighten the background and even lighten the shadow areas on your subject. This effect is most noticeable in small rooms. So the key with reflectors is to get up close in a small room.

Also, short people up close often don't look good with ceiling bounce because the flash reflection comes too steeply from overhead and makes deep shadows under the eyes, etc. A bounce from over the lens or over the photographers shoulder would be better, or use some front fill with the above mentioned card. I also prefer to use the flash and bounce card "off camera" for closeup portraits. Held high over the lens or sometimes way off to the side.

You might try higher speed portrait film. Kodak Portra 400 or Fuji NPH, or even NHG II (800). This would give you more flash bounce distance (the 380 EX isn't all that powerful for bouncing) and would lighten the background as well.

-- Jim Strutz (jimstrutz@juno.com), December 21, 1999.

I use omnibounce exclusively now. I did a lot of experiments with cardboard versions of lumiquest designs to test out which was best. the problem with the lumiquest type of approach (not including the 80/20) is that the further away from the subject, the smaller the apparent size of the reflector, and the more the flash acts like an unmodified direct flash. So for kid shots from 2-4 away the lumi- type design will work well, but for a group shot, the improvement from the lumi is very subtle. Stofen is more tolerant but all bounce flashes have the problems described by others when shooting shorter subjects or subjects with bald spots.

I have had good results working with the ikelite lite link to get the flash off the camera, in conjunction with the lumi. For example, bounce the flash off the ceiling from 45 degrees away from the camera; this kills the glare off bald heads. For kids this is good too because you get a nice diffuse light off a broad area; instead of worrying about how the light changes as the kid squirms around.

-- david brodwin (david.r.brodwin@ac.com), August 02, 2000.