A writing assignment

greenspun.com : LUSENET : B&W Photo: Creativity, Etc. : One Thread

In another post on another thread in another B&W World Forum, Alan Gibson suggested that B&W World most probably had a good article about what to buy to equip a darkroom. I decided to check (it's been a while) and lo and behold, there is no good, succinct article of that sort! My apologies for overlooking this major information gap! I'd like to do something a little different this time, though, and call upon the awesome collective wisdom or B&W World's visitors and make the article a collective effort. Post your versions here, I'll combine/summarize/edit, and it will become a permanent part of the Photographer's ToolKit!

So here's the assignment: The article will be called "A Buyer's Guide to Darkroom Equipment" and will include
1. A list of things needed , with brief explanations of purpose;
2. Caveats for first-time darkroom buyers;
3. Tips for buying used equipment (if anyone has experience buying from an on-line auction like eBay, that would be useful here).

Feel free to write as little or as much as you wish. All contributors whose works are included will be included as authors, and links to your email and/or web site will be available to those who desire them.

I'd like to put this up in time for the January update, which doesn't give us much time--but knowing how responsive you all are I have no fear that we might miss the deadline.

On your mark, get set, write! :-)

-- Mason Resnick (bwworld@mindspring.com), December 01, 1999

Answers

Your basic darkroom equipment should allow you to do two things:

a) develop film

b) make prints.

My contribution will be limited to the developing of the film.

DEVELOPING 135 AND 120 film

You need:

1. A thermometer

2. A reel to put the film on

3. A small tank with watertight lid to put the film and chemicals in.

4. A pair of scissors to cut the end of 135 film.

5. 3 containers to hold developer, stop bath and fixer.

6. Accurate measuring "glasses" for mixing the chemicals in the right proportions.

7. A clock or a timer, for timing developing and fixing time.

8. Total darkness. You can have this with a small bag called a changing bag or you can do it in a windowless room (with proper ventilation so you don't suffocate)

9. Access to water. Running water is convenient but you will get good results with just changing the water about 20 times and let the film soak a minute or so between each change. So the equipment you NEED here is a bucket.

10. Something to hold your film when you hang it to dry. I use film clips, the lower one has a built in weight to straighten the film.

11. 2 large containers for the disposal of developer and fixer before you hand it over to waste disposal.

You cannot develop film succesfully without the first 10 items. Number 11 is up to your own basic understanding on how chemicals affect the environment and health of other people.

Not absolutely necessary but nice to have is a film sponge, a very soft sponge to wipe the excess water off your negatives before you leave them to dry (in a dustless space such as the shower). NEVER USE GIZMOS WITH RUBBER-EDGES TO WIPE YOUR FILM, IT WILL SCRATCH.

This is all the equipment I use when I develop film, and it works perfectly. ...Eeeeh, well I have to admit to being cheap so I mix my chemicals from powder. Therefore I also use filters (ordinary coffee filters) when mixing the chemicals. Even if you use liquid concentrates I think filtering is a good idea.

-- Peter Olsson (peter.olsson@lulebo.se), December 02, 1999.


Peter's response is excellent, but I need to add one item of absolute necessity: A radio or CD player. Processing film is one of the most boring things one can ever do in life. The better you are at it, the more boring it is. Trust me, get the radio, and turn it up! Also works great for agitating the film as you go.

-- Tony Rowlett (rowlett@alaska.net), December 02, 1999.

A method of recording developer, dilution, temperature and time for each film. I find it very useful to know previous film development details.

I use a database that also records all my exposure details and print data, but a notebook would be sufficient.

-- Nigel Smith (nlandgl@eisa.net.au), December 02, 1999.


To Peter's list I would add:

  1. Either a can-opener for opening the casette in the dark (I am assuming 35mm film), or a film leader extractor.
  2. Scissors should be round-nosed so you don't stab yourself in the dark.
  3. Something in which to store your processed and dried negatives. Negative pages in a ring binder work well for me.

For printing:

  1. Enlarger, with a good lens.
  2. Contact printing frame. I like the Paterson Professional one, which can be used for different film formats. (Not essential, you can just use a sheet of glass.)
  3. Easel (not essential).
  4. Dusting brush, microfibre cloth.
  5. Loupe to examine negative for dust.
  6. Grain magnifier.
  7. A box to hold paper. Should be large, and light-tight when closed. Not essential.
  8. Round-nosed scissors.
  9. Darkroom torch (emits red light). Not essential.
  10. Clock with second-hand, or watch, or something.
  11. Three trays.
  12. Print washer.
  13. Print tongs, at least two, ideally three.
  14. Somewhere to hang to prints to dry.

Doubtles I have forgotten some things.

-- Alan Gibson (Alan.Gibson@technologist.com), December 03, 1999.


To Alan's list I would add a safelight.

And I would recommend a beginner to start with RC variable contrast paper... so you'll need a set of filters if your enlarger doesn't have a colour head

-- Nigel Smith (nlandgl@eisa.net.au), December 03, 1999.



Oops, yes, safelight. Also: thin black card for dodging and burning; wire and blu-tack for the same; bin for disposing of test-strips and bad prints; notepad and pen (many uses, especially for noting the sequence of times used for test strips and test prints).

I'm not sure if I can add any succint advise for first-time buyers. The lens is probably the most expensive part, followed by the enlarger. Enlargers should be as steady as possible. There are many second bargains around. With luck and the wind behind you, a complete darkroom outfit might cost #30 ($50), but is more likely to be a couple of hundred.

It's probably a sign of advancing years that I need to make more notes than I used to. Once, I would make test strips and rattle off the prints. When I try that now, I can't remember the times or apertures. Now I need fairly extensive notes.

-- Alan Gibson (Alan.Gibson@technologist.com), December 04, 1999.


Mason,

I truly hesitate to suggest what I'm going to suggest, but here goes...many photographers, including some of the greats, used bathrooms...toilet tops, bath tubs, and teeny little sinks...I have sine '59. You might include a bit on this aspect as well.

-- Todd Frederick (fredrick@hotcity.com), December 05, 1999.


Thank you all for your contributions!

You can view the results at http://www.photogs.com/bwworld/ darkroombasics.html.

Cheers!

-- Mason Resnick (bwworld@mindspring.com), January 01, 2000.


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