Hi there I have been observing for some time, that whenever I develope Tmax 100 roll in D76 and then fix it with Hypo solution (one handfull of the crystals/1 liter), for 5 min., The neg has a violetish blue color all over the place

Is it due to improper fixing

Can somebody suggest some better fixer? Thanx Shree

-- Shree (shreepadjoglekar@usa.net), October 27, 1999

Answers

I think the blue colour is a anti-halo dye, which is usually removed by fixing. Using Ilfords Hypam, I get this effect, when using more than 5 T-max/Delta films per 500 ml diluted fixer (1:4).

So your fixer is not strong enough (anymore)or fixing time to short. Hypam requires 3-5 mins for T-max. The T-max films seem to be harder to fix than Tri-X, Agfa, Fuji etc.

You'll find plenty of good information on kodak fixers on their web site. As I'm not sure that a handful of crystals per litre is a proper concentration.

We are using Hypam, because we used to use Hypam 10 years ago and never had any trouble, as long as it was not too exhausted. A 5 liter tank costs about 20 Euro plus tax.

-- Wolfram Kollig (kollig@ipfdd.de), October 27, 1999.

Hi, I got some good answers on this question under the title "Should fixer-clearing time on Tmax include colour removal?" http://www.greenspun.com/bboard/q-and-a-fetch-msg.tcl?msg_id=001Gyc

It seems certain types of washaids is the way to go.

-- Peter Olsson (peter.olsson@lulebo.se), October 27, 1999.

Seems to me that you might benefit by using a more standardized fixer than "one handfull of the crystals/1 liter." Kodak F-5 and F-6 both use 240 grams of Sodium Thiosulfate per liter, and thats WAY more than a handfull, unless maybe you're Wilt Chamberlain!

-- J.L. Kennedy (jlkennedy@qnet.com), October 27, 1999.

The fixing problem is one reason why I gave up on T-Max films. I simply don't understand why anybody uses it when there are so many other, far less problematical films out there.

http://www.ravenvision.com/rvapeter.htm

-- Peter Hughes (leonine@redshift.com), October 27, 1999.

The formula I have used for years without problem is 1 pound of sodium thiosulfate (Penta) crystals to one gallon distilled water. Works well with Tmax, even though I gave on Tmax for other reasons. Pat

-- pat j. krentz (krentz@cci-29palms.com), October 27, 1999.

The magenta color is leftover sensitizing dye.

You do _not_ need to fix the film forever to remove it; it will, however, need a minute or two longer fix time than standard films.

To remove the dye, use a wash aid. You can buy the prepackaged stuff or make your own by dissolving a tablespoon (about 25g) sodium sulfite in a quart of water. After fixing, treat the film in the wash aid for two to three minutes with constant agitation, then wash and dry normally.

-- John Hicks / John's Camera Shop (jbh@magicnet.net), October 28, 1999.

Kodak's F-24 fixer modified by Gorden Hutchins's is: Water 3 quarts hot (125) Hypo 4 cups Sod.Sulfite 1 heaping tablespoon (40gm. or 22cc bulk) Sod.Bisulfite 1/3 cup (100gm or 73cc bulk) Water to make 1 gallon. I have used this formulation and found it very satisfactory. Pat

-- pat j. krentz (krentz@cci-29palms.com), October 28, 1999.