Need your help! Tips on taking Pictures of People

greenspun.com : LUSENET : B&W Photo: Creativity, Etc. : One Thread

Hi, I am back in school taking B&W2, my project this semester, per my Prof. is to take pictures of people in public places.

Now the problem I have, is that living in NYC, people get really angry when you take their pictures without their consent. I don't want to ask for permission, as I feel it will ruin a shot. I use a Nikon N90s, I would like some advice on how to go about shooting without the person's knowing, to get a natural unposed shot. I also am using a Yashica Mat TLR. I would really appreciate any ideals and comments you all would have. Thanks a lot. Bill

-- Bill Gaines (wgaines691@aol.com), September 24, 1999

Answers

Bill,

Three words: Just Do It !

You'll get your best stuff that way. Don't let them know that you're there. Be an observer and the rest will fall into place. Good luck!

Michael D. D'Avignon

-- Michael D. D'Avignon (LoungeAxe@aol.com), September 25, 1999.


Use the Yashica Mat. It's silent and you can shoot from the hip which is not recognized as photographing that soon. With the Nikon you could use a 200mm so you have enough distance to remain relatively unnoticed .

-- Lot (lotw@wxs.nl), September 25, 1999.

Another advantage of the Yashica Mat is that people have more sympathy for you because of the nostalgic looking camera and they'll get not that angry, I'm sure.

-- Lot (lotw@wxs.nl), September 25, 1999.

Ah yes- people pictures. My favorite subject and also very challenging.

True, candid shots are less intrusive, but require a telephoto lens (generally) which is less personal than a normal or wide angle. The best and most revealing people shots I've taken required

1. Awareness of an appealing situation

2. a non-threatening approach and rapor with the subject

3. Patience! Wait for the subject to get comfortable with your presence and s/he will return to the activity that interested you.

4. Respect. If the subject does not want his/her picture taken, then don't take it. While it's legal to take photographs of people in public, it's not exactly ethical to do something against another's will. Besides, the picture probably won't turn out well anyway. And without a model release you can't publish the photo for profit.

5. Moderate wide angle lens (i.e. 35mm) on a rangefinder. Fill the frame of a wide angle view and you'll get detail that you would otherwise miss with a telephoto (e.g. a faint scar or beads of sweat that add depth to the "story" you're trying to tell). Also, a smaller, quieter camera is much less threatening than an SLR.

6. Available light. Flashes are too intrusive and really break up the flow of the subjects activity.

Have fun and be patient! This is one of the most challenging and rewarding aspect of photography. Good luck.



-- Asher (schachte@a1.tch.harvard.edu), September 25, 1999.


Sorry- I mis-spelled my own name in my e-mail address above.

-- Asher (schachter@a1.tch.harvard.edu), September 25, 1999.


You might want to check out Diane Walker's work on the Digital Journalist website:
http:// dirckhalstead.org/issue9807/diana01.htm

Her success is at least partly due to her "remarkable ability to concentrate all her energy on you, and make you feel that either you are her best friend or the most important person in the world." I think that if you show genuine interest in your subject and their activities then you'll come away with a good shot. You may have to waste a few frames for the standard posed shot, but if you're persistent and patient you'll come away with something genuine.

-- Asher (schachter@a1.tch.harvard.edu), September 25, 1999.


I have tried shooting people on the street here in Copenhagen for the past few years and have found that big bulky cameras and especially anything that makes you look like a press-photographer are useless. 2 out of 3 stiffens up, looks away or something like that.

I have had better luck with cameras that looked old fashioned, like an cheap amateur SLR from the 70'ties with a 35 f2 or 50 f2. An old rangefinder will do just as well or maybe better.

You can usually buy 1 or 2 such outfits for the price of having 100 images scanned to a photoCD, so cost and fear of theft, angry people smashing the camera etc. are absent with let's you loosen up ;-)

Another approach I have had some succes with is taking pictures from a bike. It's as if people don't see your big bulky SLR if you are part of the traffic. Most of the good shots are taken while I waited at a red light, but some are taken in motion at 1/250 or quicker. I have taken both people on the sidewalk and people on the road on bikes or in cars etc. It can lead to some rather unusual images of people and their behaviour in a familiar but seldom documented situation.

-- Kristian Elof Sxrensen (elof@image.dk), September 25, 1999.


Philip Greenspun has a bug in his software that my conference software has had a solution for since 1997
iiirkkkk

-- Kristian Elof Sxrensen (elof@image.dk), September 25, 1999.

Bill- I just discovered a FAQ section on this site that discusses street photography. It's a great discussion with Mason Resnick and others. Here's the website:
http:// www.photogs.com/bwworld/bwfaqst.html

-- Asher (schachter@a1.tch.harvard.edu), September 27, 1999.

I have heard that Harry Callahan would select a framing with good light, background etc., prefocus on a plane people are passing through and then expose when a good subject came into the field without looking through the lens. It necessitates a tripod or a resting place for the camera. I suppose you could even use mirror lock up. This method requires some patience and foresight, both good things to cultivate while a student...t

-- tom meyer (twm@mindspring.com), September 27, 1999.


I spent several years as a photojournalist in Mexico in the '80s and at first couldn't speak the language. I found most people in public didn't mind being photographed as long as I didn't become a pest. I remember one day on the square in a small town an old man was sitting on a park bench, dressed interestingly with straw hat, red bandanna etc. I approached to within about 15 feet and made a couple of frames. I then became somewhat engrossed in the light and the moment and continued shooting. After about 10 frames, the old guy took out a handkerchief and rubbed his nose and just motioned for me to go away without even looking at me. I got the message and a good photo.

-- Joe Cole (jcole@apha.com), September 30, 1999.

Hey Everyone:

Just wanted to say thanks to everyone for all you help, will be using some of your ideals.

My Project for the semester will be Washington Square Park and its people (NYC).

Thanks again!

-- Bill Gaines (wgaines691@aol.com), October 02, 1999.


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