TMAX 100 35MM Developmentgreenspun.com : LUSENET : B&W Photo - Film & Processing : One Thread
I am trying to find the best developer combination with Kodak TMAX 100 B & W film (35MM) to get best tonal gradation (normal), retain the standard film speed, and finest grain. Does anyone have an answer as to which specific developer, dilution, and development time for this film. I have heard so much in the way of different info that I am confused. Used to work with Microdol-X and PX.
-- Dan Stanley (firstname.lastname@example.org), July 04, 1999
HI Dan Tried TMAX 100 and had a hard time with it. Now use Ilford Delta 400 m/f and 35mm, for most of my work I use PMK from photogaphers formulary at 200
-- Marty (email@example.com), July 05, 1999.
I use PMK to develop T-Max 100, but if you don't want to mess with it I used to get excellent results with Kodak's T-Max developer. The only down-side is it's expensive.
-- Ed Buffaloe (firstname.lastname@example.org), July 05, 1999.
Dan, You can use D-76 1:1 @ 68F for 12 1/2 minutes, or , for finer grain, D-76 straight @ 68F for 8 minutes.
-- Walter Massa (Massacam@aol.com), July 06, 1999.
Xtol diluted 1:2. I go 11 min @ 75 deg. F for a diffuse enlarger.
-- Tim Brown (email@example.com), July 08, 1999.
Dan, i have found that hc-110 works well with the t-max films, but usually not at the recomended asa's. t'max tends to be a bit thicker emulsioned than i like. by doing a compression development ( 1 stop ) the tonal values tend to setle in. The exception is on days when the quality of the light is perfect.. then the recomended asa works fine with recomended development. Although, i do think the grain is better, and the tonal values too, with Delta films. usually i develop them in ID-11 (ilfords D76). However, they don't seem to be as forgiving to errors in exposure as T- maxfilms. Hope this helps, Sean
-- Sean (ZBeeblebrox42@yahoo.com), July 12, 1999.
Dan, I had a lot of problems with TMAX-100 highlights burning out. The only developer that works well for me is Xtol. I use it diluted 1:1, and I think the recommended time is about 8 minutes @ 70 degrees. I typically go 30 seconds over the recommended time. There is an excellent download from the Kodak web site that has every possible thing you'd want to know about the stuff. CH
-- Conrad Hoffman (firstname.lastname@example.org), July 31, 1999.
My experience is limited to Minox-sized TMX in a Minox Daylight Tank, which behaves a bit differently from 35mm development. Also, as part and parcel of the needs of the tiny Minox negative, I give substantially less agitation than recommended by Kodak (every two minutes instead of every thirty seconds) to keep the grain from becoming pronounced.
Anyway, I've had nice results with D-76 1:1 at the recommended time of 12 minutes at 68. But the contrast does run a bit high, with blocked up highlights and shadows on occasion. (I'm using an Omega D3 condensor enlarger.)
I've recently switched over to XTOL 1:1. But, at least for the Minox Tank and minimal agitation, I've found I have to give substantially more development time to get thoroughly developed negatives. In my latest roll, with two extra minutes of development beyond the recommended time for the temp I was using, I got negs that are ALMOST the right density - two and half minutes will probably be the magic equation. But it's worth doing: the grain is definitely finer than with D-76, and the contrast is tamed considerably.
So, IMHO, you can definitely use D-76 for TMX at Kodak's recommended times (especially if your negative is larger than Minox!), but XTOL is probably better... And with recommended agitation, it might be developed to the right density, although you'll have to experiment: extra time may be necessary.
(And just for the record, I have strangely found that D-76 1:1 is NOT a good soup for TMY [T-Max 400]. I did some half-frame 35mm in it at Kodak's recommended time - but with agitation at 1 minute rather than 30 seconds - and got very contrasty, almost-heavy, noticeably grainy negatives. 5x7 prints from the half-frame TMY negatives viewed side by side with 5x7 prints from half-frame Tri-X negatives [also developed in D-76 1:1 with 1 minute agitation] shot with the same camera are surprising: While the TMY does have more detail/resolution, the grain is FAR better in the TX!
So for 400-speed work - which I only do in half-frame 35mm and larger, not Minox - I'm sticking with good old Tri-X. A grand old emulsion!)
Anyway, I hope this helps!
-- Michael Goldfarb (email@example.com), July 31, 1999.