I am building a two track HO layout: one a passenger set with an ACL E7A-B loco , the other a freight set with an SAL GP-9 phase III loco. I am limiting the size to fit on a 4'x8' sheet of plywood. I am using 3' pieces of Atlas Super-flex track with 3' pieces of beveled cork road bed, which is split lengthwise down the middle. If anyone could offer some advice on how to attach the cork and the track, I would greatly appreciate it. I am new to this hobby and I could use a little help. I could have gone with molded road bed track, but I thought that was just too easy. Thanks everyone!

-- Brinson Neil Jordan (thisisbnj@aol.com), January 24, 1999

Answers

So far, you have gotten 2 good answers. I am going to delve into an area of track-laying even experienced modelers often overlook: track must be level and not kinked. This may seem too obvious but failure in either/both areas leads to derailments.

After the cork (or what ever) is laid, but before the glue under it completely dries/sets, take a small [pocket] level and turn it so its length is perpenducular to the cork/roadbed. move the level along and correct any places that are not in the same plane as the rest. Also, make sure there are no sudden changes in elevation.

As you spike down the 3' sections of track make sure that they are not kinked and are in guage where the rail joints are. Use a 3-point gauge. Lay the track tie centers over the centerline (crack) in the cork. If the cork is laid wrong the track will be wrong. Re-lay the cork, right this time, if errors are found. At track switches, lay the straight-through cork first, then the cork for under the diverging route. Cut the cork as necessary to fit the diverging cork smooth and flush against the straight-through cork. If your track switches have holes in the centers of the ties, use these holes to set the switches over the center lines of the cork. Don't solder all your rail joints. You have to allow for expansion and contraction that goes with temperature

-- Wayne R. Long (E9_wayne@usa.net), February 19, 1999.

So far, you have gotten 2 good answers. I am going to delve into an area of track-laying even experienced modelers often overlook: track must be level and not kinked. This may seem too obvious but failure in either/both areas leads to derailments.

After the cork (or what ever) is laid, but before the glue under it completely dries/sets, take a small [pocket] level and turn it so its length is perpenducular to the cork/roadbed. move the level along and correct any places that are not in the same plane as the rest. Also, make sure there are no sudden changes in elevation.

As you spike down the 3' sections of track make sure that they are not kinked and are in guage where the rail joints are. Use a 3-point gauge. Lay the track tie centers over the centerline (crack) in the cork. If the cork is laid wrong the track will be wrong. Re-lay the cork, right this time, if errors are found. At track switches, lay the straight-through cork first, then the cork for under the diverging rout. Cut the cork as necessary to fit the diverging cork smmoth and flush against the straight-through cork. If your track switches have holes in the centers of the ties, use these holes to set the switches over the center lines of the cork. Don't solder all your rail joints. You have to allow for expansion and contraction that goes with temperature

-- Wayne R. Long (E9_wayne@usa.net), February 19, 1999.

Mark the centerline where you want the track. CUT the cork strip in two lengths with a razor (wallpaper) knife. Place one length of cork on one side of the centerline on a bead of Titebond white glue and staple. Do the same with the second length of cork. Stagger the starting ends. If you have a curve, affix cork to the inside of the curve first. Let it all dry overnight. Tomorrow, pull out the staples. It works great! (see Model RR Mag. 12/98, "Cactus Valley."

One side of the flex track has a movable rail, always use it on the inside of your curves. Join your track tightly (no gaps) into 6' sections (you will have to remove one tie) with rail joiners and lightly solder on the outside. I like to supply power to HO rail every 6' with powered rail joiners ($2). Check out the Atlas Forum for more rail info - they do not supply an instruction manual with their track. PS the "Forum" icon is not working - click on the word "Forum" at the bottom of the page.

Gene

-- Gene (workmans@thomson.net), February 18, 1999.

Put the cork roadbed onto the wood with Elmers white glue.Use spikes NOT NAILS to attach the track to the cork.Then spread ballast over this and spray mist thinned white glue over this to hold the ballast in place.Wipe rails clean.Some people will try to tell you that you need nails,not spikes,tell them they don't know what they are talking about.

-- Joseph Oates (jlosal@gte.net), January 27, 1999.