Climbing in the Mont Blanc Massif in September

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I have climbed in the Mont Blanc area for several years now, but this year I don't have time off until the end of the Summer. How is the weather in September/October - and will the Snow/Ice conditions be poor this late in the year before the new snows arrive? Most of my climbing is done in Scotland - so I'm used to appauling conditions!

-- Dave Virde (virdee@glg.ed.ac.uk), July 11, 1998

Answers

The weather is more stable in the fall than in the summer, with longer stormy periods, and between them longer periods of nice weather without the afternoon thunderstorms. it it snows in late summer the snow conditions can be excellent, otherwise most of the steep north faces would be black ice or even dry. this does not apply to lower angle routes and routes on the italian side of mont-blanc which ususally remain good throughout the season. however, check with ohm for this year's particular conditions. some of the classical north faces are quite big, so you might think twice about attempting them in bad conditions, less you enjoy spending days on climbs which are done without bivying in normal conditions.

-- Quang-Tuan Luong (luong@ai.sri.com), July 15, 1998.

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