Some suggestions for climbing in California

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My boyfriend and I are going to be in California in mid-May. This is our first trip in America. We will have about 2 weeks to play, and will be self-guided. We would like to visit San Francisco and Yosemite and we 'd like to climb in Y.N.P.; in Europe we climb on long routes of 5.10(a and b), and we 'd like to climb on easy and safe routes.We don't want to haul a lot of gear around. If you don't mind, and if you have the time, could you advice us for some routes? And for some sports crags in California. Please give us all the informations you have. Thank you a lot

-- Chiara Colucci (colucci@fisica.unige.it), February 24, 1998

Answers

If by "safe" you mean sport routes, your options in Yos are severely limited. Be sure to read my article "Hints for first-time comers". The only sport crag that i would consider worthy for international visitors is Owens River Gorge, near Bishop, east of the Sierra. But I don't know too much about smaller crags. Your timing should be perfect for both sites.

-- Quang-Tuan Luong (luong@ai.sri.com), February 24, 1998.

Sport crags in California are not very good. Yet, the ones you should visit if you must have that bolt fix are Owens, Williamson, and. . .thats it. There are fun trad areas that have some really fun sport routes in between such as Taqhuitz and Suicide rocks, Joshua(bolted face, not sport), Needles, Domelands, etc.

-- Ronnie Miller (dylan-miller@juno.com), February 27, 1998.

Sport crags in California are not very good. Yet, the ones you should visit if you must have that bolt fix are Owens, Williamson, and. . .thats it. There are fun trad areas that have some really fun sport routes in between such as Taqhuitz and Suicide rocks, Joshua(bolted face, not sport), Needles, Domelands, etc. In YNP check out the cookie cliff, must do the Direct North Buttress of middle cathedral, many routes on this formation, look in the guide once in the park. I will be in Yosemite during that time, give me a ring.

-- Ronnie Miller (dylan-miller@juno.com), February 27, 1998.

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